Titebond II dry time

[john_l]

I am making some retail sales cabinets/counters with 10" radius front corners. I have made some forms with the bot and glued (Titebond II) and clamped two layers of 3/8" bendable ply over the forms.

Even with all the pressure (and 10"r seems like about the max for this material) my test piece held together great after letting it set over night about 13 hours. I have alot of these corners to make up today and am wondering.. If I could take some of these out of the forms late today, I could have double the amount done by tomorrow morning. What would you estimate is the actual dry time of Titebond II in this use?

[knight_toolworks]

you mean clamp time or fully dry? clamp time is a hour or two fully dry is about 24 hours.

[john_l]

Yes, clamp time. But clamp time in this scenario. I edited my post and added a pic. ?

[Big-Tex]

Use brown glue this will dry rock hard. Con - longer wait for curing.

Also shooting some 23 ga. brads may help, should not be visable at all.

[knight_toolworks]

it's a big surface so 3 hours would be fine.

[dlcw]

Take a look at DAP Weldwood (plastic resin glue). This stuff dries so hard that there is NO spring-back in the piece. I've been using this stuff for about 10 years and when it comes to lamination and freeform work I won't use anything else. I also use it for all my veneering work using my vacuum bag press. Lots of open time (close to an hour) for complicated glue as well.

[bleeth]

I agree with Don 100%. You're shape will hold better than with Titebond. You should easily be able to lay one up in the AM and 1 up before going home.
Mix according to directions and DON"T BREATH THE POWDER (It has cyanide in it)

[john_l]

Thanks for the tips. I couldnt find the DAP product locally. In PA, I'm out in the kuntry and my materials come from the big city. So I just went with the titebond this time around. It seems to hold real tight after about 5-6 hours and likely wouldnt take so long but I am really stressing this bendable ply to get the radius. We have warm temps now too, so that must be helping.

Thanks again.

[dlcw]

John,

My local True Value Hardware store orders it in 2 lbs. buckets for me. Since they are a DAP dealer, they can get anything DAP makes. Check you local Ace Hardware also to see if they carry DAP. Mine does here.

[knight_toolworks]

weldwood requites temps at 70 degrees. I tired it at less and it did not work well. but it also says clamp at 70 degree for 14 hours and at 80 8 hours. so that would be longer then most yellow glues.

[matt_zettl]

Unless these pieces are mechanically captured in the final installation in such a way that they cannot move, and the edges are hidden, I would be concerned about using yellow glue, or any aliphatic resin glue such as Titebond I, II, or III. All of these glues can exhibit some creep. As Don noted, the glue of choice for bent laminations is plastic resin glue - no springback, and more importantly, no creep over time. The only other glue that could be considered would be epoxy. You might be able to decrease your clamp time with the epoxy if you used a faster setting hardener and the temps were high. You might want to look at the West System epoxies and the options as far as clamp time, etc.

Hope this helps.

Matt

[john_l]

Thanks Matt. These particular bent pieces, in the finished cabinets, are screwed to some countour cut melamine top and bottom with pocket hole screws but there's nothing in the middle so I figured I would try a moulded piece like this. I broke all the pieces out of the forms this morning and we were standing on a couple of them to see if it look like it was gonna hold. Im a pretty big guy, so everything looks good. Next time I will start with the plastic resin glue thanks to the advice of you guys.