WOOD BREADBOARDS

[marshawk]

If there is a kitchen, there is a breadboard. Breadboards can be decorative and functional and easy to make. Did you know that they are actually more hygenically safe than plastic or glass? Check out these links:

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showpost.php?p=10185&postcount=5

And the discussion: http://www2.abc.net.au/science/k2/stn/posts/topic165045.shtm

If you are looking for Christmas projects for your ShopBots, this is a good one.

Cheers!

Chip

[matt_r]

I second Chip's idea. I'm doing some right now. I'm doing them out of Beech and Maple. The following picture is of one I did in Beech. The back of the board has "Christmas 2005" carved in.

Very simple to make. People love em. This one is about 8"x12".

-Matt
2655

[elcruisr]

Actually, several years ago I saw an article from the FDA (Food and drug admin.). They consider white oak, unoiled or sealed in any way, to be the best commercial cutting board. The acidity of the wood made it very antibacterial.

Eric

[mikejohn]

I'm making cutting boards using the free V-carve wizard Christmas wreath on the back, again out of beech.
..................Mike

[ed_lang]

New ShopBotter here and wondering how you guys hold the boards down? Vacuum, Tabs or someting else. I want to try some today or tomorrow for Chirstmas.

I seem to be able to create the toolpaths OK, it is just holding stuff that gives me fits. Looking forward to my first camp so I can see some examples of how you guys hold stuff.

Also, is there a more standard size than not?

[bobstand]

Matt: What is script that you used on the name?
Thanks,
Bob

[robtown]

Ed,
there are as many methods as there are forum participants...

I don't have a vacuum table so I rely on screws and tabs for wood and thicker sheet goods, and for plex and acrylic I will screw down a piece of solid surface material or melamine and use two sided masking tape. These are generalities of course...

[gerald_d]

To hold down, consider a blank that is bigger than final size, screw or clamp around the edges, use last cuts (or table saw, etc.) to trim off the holding edges.

[matt_r]

To answer a few questions...
1) The font is English111 that comes with Part Wizard as one of the v-carve fonts, and a 60 degree v-bit. But I also own V-carve Wizard, and I've done a number of these in that program when the person does not want the fonts I have in PW2. (Side note: Since VCW does not have a text function, I have to create the lettering in Corel Draw, save it as a DXF, and import it into VCW. I'm really hoping that they add a text tool to VCW in its next release!).

2) Holding down. Mine are cut from planed down 4/4 stock (ends up about .88 thick). This one happens to be 8x12 in size, and the blank I start with is 1" bigger in each dimension, so 9x13. I just put wood screws in each corner to hold the blank down. To cut out, I run a 1/4 down spiral bit, at a .3 depth of cut, taking about 3 passes to cut it out. I find that it holds pretty well, and only occasionally do I have a small burr at the end of the tool path to clean up.

3)Sizes of cutting boards. Like I said, this one is 8x10, I also do 10x14, and I've done some in Corian as big as 14x18. But I don't think there are any set sizes, but the 10x14 seem to be the most popular. Also, the drip feature is done with a 1/2" ball end mill, going .2 deep. That feature is done by 'machine along a vector', and the vector is offset from the edge by 0.75" inches.

Happy Holidays

-Matt

[tony_mac]

Hi Matt,

Very interesting project and thanks for sharing the additional information.

Just to let you know that the next version of VCarve Wizard will definitely include Text entry, allowing any True Type Font to be used and making it much quicker and easier to setup this kind of job.

Tip - Export your Corel designs as EPS files and this will give better results in VCW.

Have a Great Christmas and Best Wishes for 2006!

Tony

[baxter]

Hello Everyone,

I to am new to shopbot and trying to make cutting boards out of white oak for christmas as well. My problem is that I can not get the text to cut and look good when its done. I am using a 30deg 30thou tip engraving tool. I am only trying to go .0312 deep so I did not think that would be a problem. However, that is not the case. I have tried to cut in V-carving and Following the Vector. Why can't I get any quality???? Do I just need a 60deg V-carving bit?? I am sure part wizard will cut text I just am missing a step. any help would be great Thank-You

Joel

[billp]

Joel,
I am not sure that you'll get a very clean line in white oak with such a severe V bit. I would guess that you are going to get a lot of tear out, partially because of the grain structure of the oak, and also because of the bit geometry.
Sometimes you can get a cleaner cut in woods like oak if you use a bit with a wider angle. Unless you are restricted by the nature of the job, OR the size of your material I think I'd try something like a 90 degree (and when space allows I go to a 120 degree )bit. Obviously the wider angle makes your letters wider, but you can limit the depth in the software.
As a side note wider letters gild, and paint better, and faster too...
If you HAVE to use such a severe V bit could you switch over to a cherry or maple instead?

[baxter]

Bill,

Thank-You Very Much for the info and I am not restricted in any way from using a 90 or 120 degree bit. I was only going to go .125 deep just to get the logo on back of the piece. Does a wider bit mean I have to move the spacing of the letters on a smaller logo say 2.5 inches wide or will normal spacing still give a quality cut? What I am doing is putting my logo on the back and give it to relatives.

[baxter]

Bill,

Thank-You agian I will get the 120deg and repost as soon as I can.

Merry Christmas Sir

Joel