Shelf Pin Holes...How to

[Michael Zanzano]

Hi All,
I just completed my first plenum and I'm thinking ahead about a project I have to do, specifically, shelf pin holes. Not sure how to approach them, I have a spindle and no air drill. Lets say I want 5 mm holes, do I plunge with a smaller bit and pocket? Or do I use a 5mm bit and peck drill?
Any help is appreciated.

[gene]

If you use a smaller bit and pocket you will get better results . Be careful when you drill , lets say 1/4 " holes with a 1/4" bit , this builds alot of heat and can result in a fire. there have been many people who have had fires ( Me one of them , twice) especially if you are using a vac hold down system. i ma sure there are old post of people who have done this. Good luck

[bleeth]

I have been using Centurians 5mm bit for cab drilling for years now. I use peck drilling with a single retraction for each partial depth hole. I also pre drill hinge and drawer holes and use 5mm system screws and so drill deep enough for those. I don't drill through any boards that way though due to the heat buildup mentioned by Gene.
It is actually the only bit I use as I also only have a single head system and changing bits back and forth all day is a waste (IMHO). So I do the dados at full depth and cut-outs in 3 passes.

[dlcw]

I use a 5mm Amana boring bit with spindle speed of 3000rpm and plunge rate of .5ips. I have never had a heating problem in MDF, melamine, plywood or solid wood and the holes are super crisp. I use the same bit for hardware holes. I also use a 8mm bit for hardware holes, a Rafix bit for RTA hardware and a 1/2" 3-flute downcut spiral for hinge cup holes.

I have a 2.2 spindle and and air drill but don't use the air drill much anymore.