View Full Version : DIN steel table

04-19-2005, 06:22 AM
I'm starting to build steel table from my PRTalpha 4896. Unfortunately I'm from Europe, so I need some plans about building Steel table with DIN profiles. If somebody has this kind of articles, it will be extremely helpfull
Thank You in advance.

04-19-2005, 06:44 AM
Hi Kamen, the Deutsche Industrie Norm (DIN) is not very helpful to find the right size of steel in your town. I would suggest that you first go to your local steel supplier and ask them if they have "channel" steel approximately 150mm x 50mm (high x wide). Then I suggest that you read this long thread (http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/messages/7/3701.html), followed by this thread (http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/messages/7/6020.html), and I will try to help you with a plan for the steel that you can find in your town. Can you read CAD drawings in dxf?

04-19-2005, 07:05 AM
Mine worked well with 160mm x 60mm

04-19-2005, 12:26 PM
Hi Mike & Kamen,
My German colleagues tell me that DIN 1026 allows for the following standard [-sizes:
. . . . . 60x30, 65x42, 80x45, 100x50, 120x55, 140x60, 160x65, 180x70 . . . . . .
Thus it is a narrow choice between 140x60 or 160x65 - the difference in weight is 16 kg/meter versus 18.8 kg/meter. (The SB plans have a channel at 12.2 kg/meter) Both the DIN options are heavy enough.

Mike, what is the standard length of steel around your part of the world? Is it 6 meters?

04-19-2005, 12:52 PM
Yes all 6 metres, so Kamen needs to undestand your technique for getting two 3045mm lengths from 6 meters

Mine may be 65mm wide, I cant recall what the precise width was.


04-19-2005, 02:00 PM
So, where did you get your legs (not pins) from? It sounded like you had some serious off-cuts.

04-19-2005, 04:19 PM
In actual fact lengths are always over long (in UK, probably in Germany too). I just cut my length of channel in half and each piece is a couple of inches overlength.

04-20-2005, 12:31 AM
I managed to get a short piece

Cut out the legs with about 75mm waste. Of course you can use lighter [ than I did for the legs.

How goes your build?
Up to now Ive been restricted to drawing with a pencil, but I get my router bracket today, then its full steam ahead


04-20-2005, 07:23 AM
Hi everybody
My point is:
If I use [ 100x50 I can install x-rails according SB manual' but the table surface will go up at about 50 mm, wich decrease my Z-axis travel
If I use [ 160x65 and install x-rails without grinding I will decrease my y-axis at about 30 mm, and even worse - to smash my Colombo driver.

Mike my supplier has [ 160x65 and 140x60 12m long.I will use the same [ for cross supports and legs.

04-20-2005, 07:49 AM
Kamen, if you put the legs directly underneath the 160x65 (instead of to the inside) then you get 70mm more y-travel than the the SB design.

04-20-2005, 09:30 AM
After a lot of advice from Gerald I have welded sides to my table,then the sides bolted together with the cross table supports.
I have 1500mm between ]______[ which is plenty of room.
Although my legs may be overkill, it does make for a solid table.


04-25-2005, 02:54 AM
Thanks Gerald and Mike
Welding the sides is best way from me too.


04-25-2005, 10:56 AM
Hi Gerald,
Hi Mike.
Some hours later ...
Welding is not good for me.
I talked with some guys near to my workshop, because I cant weld the legs by myself. And when I start to talk about accuracy the conversations became very relative.

So I have another evil plan.

Steel Table.rar

3261 (12.8 k)

The Dxf is not very good, but I Think that the idea is clear.
Tell me what you think about it.


04-25-2005, 11:46 AM
The accuracy for the table isnt that important. You get the real accuracy when fitting the shopbot rails.
If the steel is straight, then a lot of the accuracy is already in place. Make adjustable bolts on the feet, that takes care of slight leg differences. If you drill the cross rails, that takes care of the table width (and with legs welded under youve got lots of spare space.

04-25-2005, 12:08 PM
Hi Kamen

I cannot read your .dxf file - will you mail it to me please? gerald(at)scapenotes.com

I think that you need to be able to weld accurately to about 2 or 3mm tolerance. As Mike said, you put in the precision when you screw the rails to your table frame. Then you put in thin plates (shims) to get them straight.

04-25-2005, 12:26 PM
Okay, I managed to read your file now:


That is a strong enough construction to start with. Just be careful that you do not put too much welding.

04-28-2005, 03:18 AM
Hi Gerald
The table is ready for painting
I plan to bolt all the parts together without welding at all
I'll send you a picture when I'm ready