Wall Panels

[marcrunner]

Grabbed this file from Aspire. Wanted to check out the tiling feature. Came out ok. If done again, I would have spent more time smoothing/filling the MDF, as the metallic paint seemed to magnify every flaw. If anyone has any sanding techniques, they are welcomed. I ended up hand sanding each piece.Feeds were fast for these panels, and were done without a roughing pass using a ballnose bit of .64. Thanks, Marc

[scottp55]

Marc, We're always our own worst critic:) Came out very well indeed! Haven't tiled yet but hope mine will come out as well as yours. Always find hand sanding curves comes out more fluid myself, Hope someone will enlighten us on an "Easy" way, but "Easy" usually isn't "Best":) What is finished size? How long did it take you? Nice!

[marcrunner]

Scott,
finished size is 2'x4'. If I remember it was about 3 hours for all of the panels, but I don't have a fast machine. Ended up with alot of dust in the collector on this one! Thanks, Marc

[scottp55]

Another reason to get Aspire and get my Desktop away from the wall so I can tile:( Visualizing that in quilted maple old stock in the garage! Oh, Thank you Soo much Marc:rolleyes:

[myxpykalix]

In my limited experience cutting/sanding/painting mdf...
The first time i just cut it and painted it...mistake! It sopped up paint like a sponge.
The next time i coated the piece after cutting with a 50/50 mix of titebond and water and that filled many of the imperfections and gave it a coating to keep the paint from just soaking in like a sponge and it felt like it made it easier to sand.

[Ger21]

I use a technique that leaves a glass smooth finish and requires no sanding or filling.
I set my Z zero for the roughing and finishing about .01" above the surface, and do my rough and finish cuts. The finish passes can use a larger stepover to speed up the cutting process.

When finished, I brush on a heavy coat of a thin laminating epoxy, like West Systems. I use US Composites, which is about 1/3 the price of West Systems. All the epoxy will soak into the MDF.

Once the epoxy has cured, I re-reun the finishing pass at the proper Z position (removing the .01"). The finish will be smooth and non porous, ready for paint.

[Regnar]

I used dry wall plaster in the past for pieces similar to this. Seals the MDF and allows for a glass smooth finish. Used a small roller to apply it. Sanded it smooth then primed and painted.

[pkirby]

I use a technique that leaves a glass smooth finish and requires no sanding or filling.
I set my Z zero for the roughing and finishing about .01" above the surface, and do my rough and finish cuts. The finish passes can use a larger stepover to speed up the cutting process.

When finished, I brush on a heavy coat of a thin laminating epoxy, like West Systems. I use US Composites, which is about 1/3 the price of West Systems. All the epoxy will soak into the MDF.

Once the epoxy has cured, I re-reun the finishing pass at the proper Z position (removing the .01"). The finish will be smooth and non porous, ready for paint.

Now that sounds like a really great idea! I hate sanding with a passion.

[khaos]

Gerry, thats a great idea. You also get any swelling out of the way early.

[hippo]

I've done the same thing many times. I used a 50/50 mix of Titebond and water. It's the cheap version. The final piece comes out perfectly smooth and I don't bother to sand it.

[Bob Eustace]

Brilliant Jack! You just solved a problem we have with a 45 degree angle on a heap of disc we have to make. Works like a charm and darn cheap.

[marcrunner]

Thanks everyone,
Like many projects, I think i need to try to "see them out a bit more". I often find myself onto the next idea, without working out all of the bugs. Will hopefully be able to give this another try in the future