Re-Sawing Wood

[genek]

What I learned this weekend at a woodworking class, Most people do not re-saw wood due to the difficulty of re-sawing on the band saw. (Mostly being able to keep a straight cut all the way through the board.)

Before the band saw was invented. The only way to re-saw wood was by hand or on a water wheel driven fixed table saw. I learned to re-saw wood with a table saw first then with the band saw. I still use the table saw to re-saw boards 6 inches wide or less, that are soft woods like cherry, soft maple and walnut. (not referring grades of wood, but the softer woods of the Hard woods.) (harder woods like hard Maple tend to warp as you saw the wood and will bind the blade.
I use 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch wood all the time. For the 1/4 and 3/8 inch wood I re-saw 4/4 inch rough wood for the 1/2 wood I re-saw 8/4 rough wood. Wood in the rough is always slightly larger.

After re-sawing on the table saw I plane the two sides down to the thickness that I need.

One needs to use Caution when re-sawing on a table saw. Several things to watch out for is as follows.
1. Make sure the blade is at a perfect 90 degrees to the table.
2. Do not try to force the wood allow the saw blade to do its job
3. Watch out for kick backs or wood binding
4. Always use a push stick.
5. Be sure to flip the board end over end so that the same side of wood to the fence stays against the fence.
6. Make sure to stand to one side of the board. that way if you get a kick back you will not get hit.
7. Only cut boards that your saw blade can cut 1/2 plus a little that way you have blade overlap on the cut.
8. Use extreme caution when nearing the end of cut not to be using too much down force so that ones hand hits the saw blade.
9. Make sure that both edges of the board are level
10. Try not to use wood that is cupped too much.

If I end up with a board that is thinner than what I need I use it to make other things with it.

[myxpykalix]

6. Make sure to stand to one side of the board. that way if you get a kick back you will not get hit.

Yes it only takes one time to get punched in the gut (or the nuts depending on how tall you are) to learn that lesson:eek:

[Simops]

I would further add to use a riving knife. The riving knife is probably your best friend to prevent kick-back!

Cheers

[phil_o]

If you can I would strongly recommend taking a woodworking class and learn firsthand from a trained, experienced woodworking teacher. A fair number of the tools in a woodworking shop are inherently dangerous. Learning how to use them properly and safely is your responsibility.

Phil (retired high school woodworking teacher)

[bleeth]

I've had guys who were on site house carpenters for years get in trouble the first time they went to use a cabinet saw. Even the smaller HP single phase ones are so much more powerful than a contractors saw. Resawing should also be done with a proper ripping blade and not a combo.

[genek]

I've had guys who were on site house carpenters for years get in trouble the first time they went to use a cabinet saw. Even the smaller HP single phase ones are so much more powerful than a contractors saw. Resawing should also be done with a proper ripping blade and not a combo.
Thanks Dave forgot to mention type of blade And the riving knife also. Yes cabinet saws and other industrial grade saw are more powerful.
I have a 5 hp sliding table saw.

[Burkhardt]

I finally got a (somewhat) decent table saw. But I use it mostly for sheet cutting and ripping strips from a board. For tall re-sawing I feel more comfortable with my little band saw. Yes, it is more wavy and maybe not just as fast but the thin kerf compensates for the waviness loss after planing. And if I really have to cut up tall pieces up to 12" the table saw would not cut it anyway.

Actually I have almost more respect for the band saw blade than the table saw. It looks quite innocent but has no guards at all for a foot length and can take my whole hand off in a second. At least it does not kick back much.

[Ger21]

Actually I have almost more respect for the band saw blade than the table saw. It looks quite innocent but has no guards at all for a foot length and can take my whole hand off in a second.

When using a bandsaw, NONE of the blade should be exposed above the workpiece. I always adjust my guard to about 1/8" above the workpiece.
If you're resawing, be sure to use a push stick, and be sure your never pushing hard towards the blade.

Yes, bandsaws can do incredible damage very quickly.

[Burkhardt]

When using a bandsaw, NONE of the blade should be exposed above the workpiece. I always adjust my guard to about 1/8" above the workpiece.

Yes, that is understood and already necessary to get a straight cut. I was talking about the maximum height my 14" band saw can handle (I have done up to 11" tall cuts only once). But until you engage the lumber that distance is indeed running free and unprotected. I had to mount the uneven piece to cut on a sled board anyway to do that somewhat safely.

[gc3]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nyIfa4PMJns

the way to do it in a production shop...

on both band and table saws we always use feeders for resaw...feeds material at a constant rate...cutting edges stay sharper longer and fingers outta the way

[terryjones]

Now this is really re sawing in a big way.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cF_BR1Cf-9c

[myxpykalix]

I love to see stuff like that...I think it goes back to seeing educational films in woodshop and metal shop in high school..and stuff in grade school....as long as i'm on memories...
does anyone remember their paper tests that were printed (I think) called mimeograph?
It was slick white paper and the ink was purpleish blue in color and the smell was so strong it would get you woozy if you were in the office when they were printing them.

The earliest thing i can recall is filmstrips with an accompanying record.:eek:

[shilala]

I avoid resawing like the plague. I used to resaw everything. I've spent hours adjusting the bandsaw just so I could resaw stuff perfectly.
Now I just buy mostly 3/4 stock and seldom, if ever, have to resaw anything.
I'll throw thin leftovers and mistakes in the planer when I want thinner stock.
The saved stress is worth the goofy end-around way I avoid it. :d

[hh_woodworking]

Jack what you are talking about was a Dido Machine. The master had the ink on the backside and it used a fluid to remove a small amount of the solid ink from the backside of the master. Mimeograph was a master with "holes in it that the ink in the drum of the machine was forced though. They were used for higher volume work and print was mostly black. Dido were normally blue ink <50 copies made.

[genek]

I avoid resawing like the plague. I used to resaw everything. I've spent hours adjusting the bandsaw just so I could resaw stuff perfectly.
Now I just buy mostly 3/4 stock and seldom, if ever, have to resaw anything.
I'll throw thin leftovers and mistakes in the planer when I want thinner stock.
The saved stress is worth the goofy end-around way I avoid it. :d
Scott the band saw is the hardest to set and to re-saw with, especially if they are the smaller versions like the 14" Most do not have the proper set up to re-saw with. This very reason is why I brought up re-sawing on the table saw. A lot easier and quicker. Less stress and less waste.

[shilala]

Scott the band saw is the hardest to set and to re-saw with, especially if they are the smaller versions like the 14" Most do not have the proper set up to re-saw with. This very reason is why I brought up re-sawing on the table saw. A lot easier and quicker. Less stress and less waste.
My bandsaw is just an 8" resaw, Gene. I bought the POS cause it's "built for resawing". It's infinitely adjustable.
I built a good fence for it with stops and guides and push blocks with hooks and it really is super easy to resaw with and get it right.
I still hate to resaw. I didn't used to. I don't know why I'm so opposed to it nowadays, I just avoid it like the plague. :)

[genek]

My bandsaw is just an 8" resaw, Gene. I bought the POS cause it's "built for resawing". It's infinitely adjustable.
I built a good fence for it with stops and guides and push blocks with hooks and it really is super easy to resaw with and get it right.
I still hate to resaw. I didn't used to. I don't know why I'm so opposed to it nowadays, I just avoid it like the plague. :)
Scott did not mean any harm I know how skillful You are. Most band saws are not set up or come equipped to re-saw is what I meant. Sorry if i offended you.

[Simops]

I've been resawing timber, even hardwoods for some time on a bandsaw with no issue yet....I have a 15" European style BS, you do have to have it setup correctly (never ever had to contend with drift), sharp blade (they are cheap) that is max. 3 TPI, and patience (you can't push it into the blade to quickly otherwise the blade will wander).....if you have to push to hard then get new blade.
I also do thicker re saws on the TS but use a thin kerf rip blade and always, always a riving knife.
I have produced some nice book-matched pieces by resawing.

Cheers

[jTr]

Unlike Scott, I rather enjoy it - not in a laboring sense, but the results. I'm addicted to book-matched lumber. Something about the uniformity just tickles me - especially if it has interesting grain patterns.

Recently had to plane some 6/4 Q-sawn white oak - couldn't bear to grind that spendy stuff to shavings, so I fired up the Jet 16" band saw with a fresh "wood slicer" re-saw blade from Highland Hardware. Now I have a nice stack of 1/8" veneers for the next batch of mission style furniture legs.

Haven't purchased another brand of blade since I tried the wood slicers years ago- immeasurable difference in quality of cut, tracking, etc. I've had a couple guitar builders hire me to re-saw some prized logs - wouldn't attempt it without those blades. I simply do a drift test, set a fence and slowly let the blade do it's work - no power feeders.

And yes, use a push stick - I've been warned that on occasion, a board will split several inches to a foot from the end if the blade hits internal stress in the board just right, so really watch yourself.

jeff

[myxpykalix]

Edward you must be my age....i'll be 61 in week and a half. It's funny how smell can evoke far more sharper memories then anything else....:eek:

[Burkhardt]

I don't enjoy it that much as well, but I do it rarely anyway and for me this is the only way to get cost effective thin lumber sheets. I just sliced up two cedar and redwood 4x4 fence posts on the band saw and planed them down to 0.2" boards to make a small display shelf. Especially the cedar turned out to be quite pretty. I don't know how or where else to get such thin sheets (affordable, that is..).

[scottp55]

G., Have used Ocooch and third order on it's way now--Great quality, and presanded ready to scrollsaw(or "Bot:) ). Thickness was within .015".
Haven't used "ThinBoards.com" but just about to place an order as their prices are a fair amount cheaper on some species and I like to have at least two suppliers. Hope it helps someone.
http://ocoochhardwoods.com/sale.php

http://thinboards.com/ThinBoardsFrames.aspx

[shilala]

Scott did not mean any harm I know how skillful You are. Most band saws are not set up or come equipped to re-saw is what I meant. Sorry if i offended you.
You didn't offend me at all, brother. I hope I didn't use that tone, I sure wasn't trying. :)

[chiloquinruss]

Scott P - thanks for the links, good sources. Russ

[Burkhardt]

Yes, agree. Good source and reasonable prices. I will keep that in mind for smaller projects.

But I needed total 18 feet for my project with 30" max board length. Cutting from the old fence posts was almost free (if I don't count an hour or so of my time).

[Burkhardt]

Just to give an idea why re-sawing....


Before:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9ydZJxA6q5Y/VBJXvXVZTlI/AAAAAAAAFSg/2uUV5s-PHyQ/w1598-h549-no/DSC02660.JPG


After:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OQ_VqgQbz2s/VBJXt8_1KTI/AAAAAAAAFSY/bVOknv2_aYM/w1277-h853-no/DSC02657.JPG

[scottp55]

Got to admit G. , That qualifies as Work (my Dad's definition is"by your effort, the object of your time has increased in value or usefulness")!
My question is; "What the heck IS it?" :)
I've got guesses, but probably not even close knowing you. A mold form?

[Burkhardt]

.....My question is; "What the heck IS it?" :).....

Back in the 80s (when I still lived in Germany) there was a kitschy fad of hanging antique typeset trays to display small collectables, trinkets and miniature memorabilia, models or whatever and sure enough I had one, too. That fad is long gone but over the years we have used such a tray to collect random stuff we found while traveling like pretty rocks, shells or moss. Since the typeset tray fell apart (was not a real antique one, anyway) I thought to replace it with a somewhat fancier shelf. It is about 24" x 29". Still need serious sanding and final finsh.

[ssflyer]

I actually have a design for a shelf like that, and another somewhere I found that looks like Pac-Man!

[gc3]

switched to stave core door construction a few years ago...reason we re-saw

[scottp55]

Nice Gene! Hadn't seen that construction technique before, and better than my carpenters used on our Trial 3X8' pocket doors(4 more to go-but who needs interior doors when you live alone and and are in a wheelchair:) ).
With proper wood selection, it Could even make a nice "slab" door and leave exposed.
Had one guy on Vectric forum mention he did a couple of tests, and found it was more important to rip and glue smaller widths than it was to alternate grain patterns. I always thought alternating was Gospel, but it quite often disturbs the "Look". Was wondering what peoples real world experience was?
Certainly be nice to have the continuity of grain by NOT alternating. I was going to test, but why re-invent the wheel if one of you people have already done it.
Thanks

[genek]

Nice Gene! Hadn't seen that construction technique before, and better than my carpenters used on our Trial 3X8' pocket doors(4 more to go-but who needs interior doors when you live alone and and are in a wheelchair:) ).
With proper wood selection, it Could even make a nice "slab" door and leave exposed.
Had one guy on Vectric forum mention he did a couple of tests, and found it was more important to rip and glue smaller widths than it was to alternate grain patterns. I always thought alternating was Gospel, but it quite often disturbs the "Look". Was wondering what peoples real world experience was?
Certainly be nice to have the continuity of grain by NOT alternating. I was going to test, but why re-invent the wheel if one of you people have already done it.
Thanks

Sawing and drying techniques have changed. You can get by with that now days if the boards are no wider than 2 inches.. What you are trying to do is avoid cupping of the glued up board. I still stagger and offset the boards that I ripped to prevent the cupping. The Main thing with Glue ups is to make sure that the edges are square. Even with alternating wood if the edges are not square you can created a cup and/or have open gaps and end up with a weak joint. I always make sure that the edges are square either with the table saw or on the jointer.

[scottp55]

Thank you Eugene:)

[bleeth]

This is how many higher quality wood exterior doors are made for quite a while now. I ran a plant in Seattle that had custom sized ones made up with fir exterior for their screen doors. They lasted for many years with no issues.
So many today are made with particle board core and thin veneer-real garbage.

[scottp55]

No riving knife on Unisaw, Crosscut to 24", and then ripped 8"er into a 4" and 3.5" and milled down to .9" on Desktop(both sides). Brand new Freud 24T rip blade, going to use my last Zero-clearance and a Tall Fence with 2 featherboards on top and 2 magnetics before the blade.
Just splitting the .9" in half for inlay work.

My question is; Can I get away with a splitter inset into Zero-clearance? or am I asking for it(haven't done this since '98). Was thinking if I left a 1/4-1/2" in the middle uncut, I could just Jap saw it after, but having second thoughts.
If I Desktop a splitter, what should the splitter width be compared to blade kerf dimension?
Birdseye is why second thoughts.

[genek]

No riving knife on Unisaw, Crosscut to 24", and then ripped 8"er into a 4" and 3.5" and milled down to .9" on Desktop(both sides). Brand new Freud 24T rip blade, going to use my last Zero-clearance and a Tall Fence with 2 featherboards on top and 2 magnetics before the blade.
Just splitting the .9" in half for inlay work.

My question is; Can I get away with a splitter inset into Zero-clearance? or am I asking for it(haven't done this since '98). Was thinking if I left a 1/4-1/2" in the middle uncut, I could just Jap saw it after, but having second thoughts.
If I Desktop a splitter, what should the splitter width be compared to blade kerf dimension?
Birdseye is why second thoughts.

First birds eye is extremely hard. Hard wood like Birds Eye, Rock, and any Hard Maple has a tendency to warp and try to clamp the saw blade.


This is how I do it. I have a small splitter inset in zero clearance insert. I make 1/2" or smaller cuts, I keep repeating this for both sides equally until it cuts all the way. You can leave a small section in the middle but not needed. Make sure the board is square on both sides, Make sure you keep the same side against the fence. do not use feather board or any devise to keep the board against the fence. This will cause more of a bind than help.

[scottp55]

Thanks Eugene, Not quite so 'scairt now, but still I'll be living on the right side of the fence tomorrow :)

[scottp55]

Thanks Eugene, Doing it with 3 finish carpenters watching over my shoulder to "try" it, is different than doing alone at night in the garage by yourself :)
Course it took me all day, but then I didn't have to dial in everything perfectly and make an Ebony "splitter" either.
Much nicer to do it than complain I don't have a bandsaw:)
Just plain vanilla Maple to 3/8"(didn't quite trust myself yet with the good stuff).
Thanks for reminding me about it.
scott

[genek]

Thanks Eugene, Doing it with 3 finish carpenters watching over my shoulder to "try" it, is different than doing alone at night in the garage by yourself :)
Course it took me all day, but then I didn't have to dial in everything perfectly and make an Ebony "splitter" either.
Much nicer to do it than complain I don't have a bandsaw:)
Just plain vanilla Maple to 3/8"(didn't quite trust myself yet with the good stuff).
Thanks for reminding me about it.
scott


Scott that is what the forum is for, friends helping friends... Looks great. will make cutting some items easier. Been out of shop today. We have been measuring off some property that Tina and I are Getting, Then tomorrow, have some companies coming in to let us know how much it will cost to pour the concrete. We are looking at building a new shop with class rooms. This way we can offer classes and allow companies like shop bot, etc to be able to come to mid U.S. to offer classes. The new shop and Class rooms will be 45 minutes out of Lexington and with in 7 miles of the Red River Gorge and Natural Bridge. This way anyone wanting to come can bring their family and have a good vacation. We hope to get companies to come in and have classes for signs, etc.

[scottp55]

Property is always nice, but planning a new shop from scratch is even better. It will be way better than your hour commute now (especially during ice storms, now you'll be able to walk home with the pup:) ).
Now have to come up with a wall mount press for all the thin stuff:) Thinking the Besseys on the Ocooch order will work well, but hate to lose them and money is tight. All this stuff is for inlay and buttons and has to be carpet taped until I get a Vac jig made. How do you guys store thin stock that has to stay flat? I seem to remember my .25" panels for barristers from Birdseye were cupping/twisting .75" in 24" in one day.
Eugene, How big is new shop to be?
Thanks all.
scott

[genek]

Property is always nice, but planning a new shop from scratch is even better. It will be way better than your hour commute now (especially during ice storms, now you'll be able to walk home with the pup:) ).
Now have to come up with a wall mount press for all the thin stuff:) Thinking the Besseys on the Ocooch order will work well, but hate to lose them and money is tight. All this stuff is for inlay and buttons and has to be carpet taped until I get a Vac jig made. How do you guys store thin stock that has to stay flat? I seem to remember my .25" panels for barristers from Birdseye were cupping/twisting .75" in 24" in one day.
Eugene, How big is new shop to be?
Thanks all.
scott

Scott I sticker and stack with a weight on top. Main thing is to let the wood stay in the same area. what cause warping is loss or gain of moisture.
The new shop will be area will be 25 x 60 feet with two class room each will be 20 x15 plus a bathroom area and storage.
We are going to put in large wall hung monitors to use with computers in the class rooms. Total area with Porch is going to be 46 feet x 60 feet.
We are going to offer weekend classes as well as a week long class. The week long class will have places to visit (and we will be able to book some shows ) so that family members can be doing something and having a good time.
This way they can have a vacation in the area (lots to see and do in this area. ) Red River Gorge, Natural Bridge State Park, Fort Boonesboro State Park and Fort, Old Town Berea, Berea Artisan Center, Renfro Valley, and several other sites to go see.
All of these sites are within 45 minute drive of where the new shop and class rooms will be.

We hope that people that teach sign making, Aspire, ArtCam, and other classes related to the cnc will use the Facility. Wood Craft is going to have classes here.

[Simops]

Eugene....Sounds great and well done to start this initiative.......suggest you start a new thread on your new shop and keep us informed with your progress and when finished activities.....

Good luck!

Cheers

[scottp55]

Yep Eugene, You just weren't keeping busy enough! :)
Echo Michael's sentiment.
scott

[mikeacg]

Exciting news Eugene! I look forward to hearing more about this!

Mike :)

[Bill Keehn]

Scott the band saw is the hardest to set and to re-saw with, especially if they are the smaller versions like the 14" Most do not have the proper set up to re-saw with. This very reason is why I brought up re-sawing on the table saw. A lot easier and quicker. Less stress and less waste.

Late to the party, but I'll add my $.02 anyway. :)

Actually in general I think the table saw method is more wasteful. I would only ever use it if I was just splitting the board in half, and I had thickness to waste. The table saw blade kerf is much wider on the table saw than a bandsaw blade. Most woodworkers have table saw blades that are .125" vs the .025" kerf of a bandsaw blade. If I wanted to cut a board down into five 1/4" thick pieces for guitar fingerboards, on the table saw I'd need to start with a board that was no less than 2 1/4" thick. On the bandsaw I could do it with a 1 3/8" board (and nerves of steel). So the table saw would waste 3+ fingerboards worth of rosewood. Not good.

Also, I saw it mentioned that the sides of the edges of the board should be planed and that the sides should be square. However I think a very important point is that the sides should be properly surfaced and parallel to each other. When doing the table saw method you are using the fence and if the faces are not parallel (tapered thickness) then you will probably bind between the blade and fence.

Personally I never cut material on the cabinet saw until it is properly squared and dimensioned. This means flatten one face on the jointer, then square one edge on the jointer. Then over to the thickness planer to make the opposite face flat and parallel to the first. Now to the cabinet saw to square the remaining edge with a rip cut, using the first edge as a reference against the fence.

The cut you mention is fairly easy and safe enough, although there IS a lot more blade sticking out than you would normally see. I always use a riving knife, but with this cut, where the blade doesn't cut all the way through, you want to double check that the knife does not stick out above the blade in the slightest or it will create problems.

With the bandsaw I need only flatten one face on the planer and square one edge and I'm good to go. I could use my fence or my resaw bar. Either way works. If I'm cutting a 3/32" veneer I use the fence. I generally get good results and the saw marks clean up easily on the drum sander. I suppose you could say its time consuming, since I spend about 30 minutes fine tuning the bandsaw setup before I start. There isn't much to a "proper" re-saw setup. A 3TPI hook blade with about a 10 degree positive rake angle and you should be in business. Wider blades help a little, but I don't find it to be a big issue. More important is proper saw setup and a sharp blade.

I always adjust the upper blade guides so they just clear the highest point on the board I'm re-sawing. Note that I didn't need to square up the top edge. Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't. Depends on the situation. If the wood is figured and I'm being picky, I'll defer cutting any more wood than necessary until I've laid out my book match exactly.

[steve_g]

Bill...
I agree! I’ve been watching this thread and biting my tongue... We all have shop practices we are more comfortable with than another, but I don’t know how I could get the results I do by limiting myself to re-sawing on the table saw... IMHO those who are having issues re-sawing with a bandsaw are:
1. using the wrong blade... You need something like a 3tpi with the teeth set for re-sawing. buy a blade specifically designed for re-sawing!
2. Haven’t set the bandsaw up properly for re-sawing. A bandsaw is like a fine instrument... It needs tuning! Part of tuning involves setting up your fence for drift. Seldom is a board sent into the blade at a 90º angle, every saw and every blade will cut a little faster on one side of the blade than the other, and you compensate for this with your “angle of attack”!
3. Are trying to do something your saw wasn’t designed to do... A “hobby” machine likely isn’t rigid enough for serious re-sawing and is likely underpowered.
I use a lot of “native” Texas wood, much of it storm damaged and found on the curb... I cut the logs into 2” slabs, sticker and band, put it in the shed attic and forget about it for several years. I then re-saw into veneers, thinner boards or saw a lid off and make a “live edge” box. All this I do with a 3hp 18” Jet bandsaw. Most all of this would be impossible on a table saw. A desk organizer I recently posted about, involved re-sawing 6/4 10” wide white oak into 5/16” boards, also impossible on a table saw.
By planning on doing re-sawing on a table saw, I fear many are limiting their vision as to the possibilities that could have been!
SG

[Bill Keehn]

I have an 18" Jet as well. It's only the 1 3/4 HP version, but it works fine, even when cutting a pretty wide piece of ebony. I did have trouble re-sawing some logs, when I thought it would be a good idea to dry my own wood. The green wood was just too much for it.

Yes, I didn't mention accounting for drift. I took a veneer re-sawing class from David Marks and he showed us how he meticulously handles that. I normally do it the way he did. Someone pointed out to me that the drift is easily compensated for by adjusting the tracking of the saw instead of messing with the fence. Depending on how the blade lays across the crown of the wheels, you will get more or less drift. I haven't played with that yet, but it's on my mind. I've also seen some old-timers who use the re-saw bar and compensate for drift by hand. Some of them get better results than I do. I just don't have the confidence to do it that way.

A friend of mine has an old re-saw with a 3" wide 3TPI re-saw blade. Its wheels are flat and guess what, no drift compensation required. I think there is very little set to the teeth on the blade to help it lay flat and produce an even thinner kerf. In some ways its a lot like a meat saw.

Like you said though, a lot depends on what you are comfortable with. My main point before was that you don't need to be afraid of the cost. You can get an appropriate blade for $30.

As for comfort/confidence, that comes with practice. I started with various widths of scrap until I felt I knew what I was doing. I made and bolted on a taller fence so I could be confident of keeping the board at 90 degrees. I made feather boards so I could be confident of keeping it against the fence. I use a push stick so I can be confident of not slicing my thumb. I tune up my saw not because it needs it, but because I need it. It's all part of the mental preparation and ritual of getting your head into the game. You don't want to mess up your wood and you don't want to get hurt. So if someone says they aren't comfortable re-sawing on the bandsaw I respect that. I wasn't at first either. If it wasn't such a useful skill for making guitars, maybe I wouldn't have bothered.

[Bill Keehn]

BTW Steve, nice wood. Sure got a nice stash of walnut. What are those veneers? Is that a mesquite turning blank?

When I tried re-sawing logs I had trouble with the log catching on the edge of the table, so I would build a plywood sled with a vertical fence and screw the log onto the sled through the fence and start slicing, sled and all. It worked pretty well. Have you tried that?

[Burkhardt]

........ log catching on the edge of the table, so I would build a plywood sled with a vertical fence and screw the log onto the sled through the fence and start slicing, sled and all......

I am not the most accomplished resawer nor do it very often, but recently I sliced up (end grain) a very odd shaped log successfully by "glueing" it to the disposable sled with insulation spray foam. That avoids the risk of cutting into the screws and prevents wiggling/wedging reliably. I have only a 14" saw with extension which is not the most rigid one but it worked O.K. for this chunk that was 11" at the thickest section. I suppose this would work for lengthwise cuts just as well.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pcki78ulX1I/U7oRmWneIFI/AAAAAAAAE5A/5wiICxLZbjs/w848-h821-no/DSC02565.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BgqzEfkvT5k/U7oRorwn0YI/AAAAAAAAE5I/sQXw3XBs238/w678-h821-no/DSC02566.JPG

[steve_g]

Bill...
Yes, the veneer is Mesquite. Actually, it was a chunk that was in a bag of “smoker” wood that was bought from HD. Mesquite is my favorite Texas wood with Osage orange coming in a close second! The municipal golf course 3 blocks from my house puts their tree cuttings out for free pickup. A lot of people heated their homes with Texas Walnut after a large tree was in the wrong place...
I made a track and sled arrangement for my bandsaw when cutting green wood and use a skinny blade with lots of set. When dry, I use one of the popular re-saw blades... The re-saw blades don’t do well with wet wood.
SG

[steve_g]

Gert...
I finally caught on to how you were making your irregular shape flat... neat idea!
SG

[Bill Keehn]

I like that idea. When cutting it along the length I wasn't too worried about the screws since I'd stop before then. That last strip isn't too usable. But I think the foam would make it more stable.

I love Osage Orange. The only stuff you can get here is from Argentina. It's just not as pretty as the native variety, IMO.

[genek]

Bill...
I agree! I’ve been watching this thread and biting my tongue... We all have shop practices we are more comfortable with than another, but I don’t know how I could get the results I do by limiting myself to re-sawing on the table saw... IMHO those who are having issues re-sawing with a bandsaw are:
1. using the wrong blade... You need something like a 3tpi with the teeth set for re-sawing. buy a blade specifically designed for re-sawing!
2. Haven’t set the bandsaw up properly for re-sawing. A bandsaw is like a fine instrument... It needs tuning! Part of tuning involves setting up your fence for drift. Seldom is a board sent into the blade at a 90º angle, every saw and every blade will cut a little faster on one side of the blade than the other, and you compensate for this with your “angle of attack”!
3. Are trying to do something your saw wasn’t designed to do... A “hobby” machine likely isn’t rigid enough for serious re-sawing and is likely underpowered.
I use a lot of “native” Texas wood, much of it storm damaged and found on the curb... I cut the logs into 2” slabs, sticker and band, put it in the shed attic and forget about it for several years. I then re-saw into veneers, thinner boards or saw a lid off and make a “live edge” box. All this I do with a 3hp 18” Jet bandsaw. Most all of this would be impossible on a table saw. A desk organizer I recently posted about, involved re-sawing 6/4 10” wide white oak into 5/16” boards, also impossible on a table saw.
By planning on doing re-sawing on a table saw, I fear many are limiting their vision as to the possibilities that could have been!
SG

Re-sawing short boards up to 3 feet is easy on the band saw. I agree that you have less waste doing short boards on the band saw. However, I do production runs. I re-saw boards that are from 4 foot up to 12 foot long. The amount of time that it would take to re-saw that length with a band saw would out weigh any material waste. Time is money. Yes I lose a 1/4 inch on some boards... but the time saved is well worth it. When I am using the re-sawed boards I am cutting several items at one time on one slice with multiple slices on the cnc, and at the end of the day I need to see any where from 250 to 400 of that product in the bins ready to sand the next day. Re-sawing for guitars tops and other re-sawing needs is different than re-sawing for production runs. My normal run of product per day on the cnc is around $1750.00 for about $150.00 worth of wood.. My waste is very small compared to my gain on time and end product.

[steve_g]

Good point Eugene!
I readily admit I never re-saw anything longer that 3’ on my bandsaw and that my uses are far from what would be considered production runs...
SG

[genek]

No problem Steve Glad that you and others brought up that fact.. we all need to voice our opinions That is how we learn different ways... Here is a prime example of why I have to do production runs and why I have to keep so much in stock. We are doing back to back shows, and at the last show we picked up a new customer.

This new customer came by our booth at the Incredible Food Show. She stood outside of our booth for several minutes then came back and ask if I had a catalog with me that she wanted to place a order. We talked for a while and I told her that we would be in her area for Court days. This is the order she sent it.. It will be over $2,000.00 dollars.


This is what I want to order....if I am leaving anything out
let me know. When will you be over for
Court days? Do you want to bring things over then or sooner.
For us the sooner the better. Thanks!!!!

Barbie Ellington





KH 001 Large cooling rack 2
KH 004 Small cooling rack 10
KH 008 Pasta spoon 20
KH 009 Stirring spoon 20
Kh 011 Mayo knife 15
KH 012 Drain spoon 20
KH 013 Honey Swirl 25
KH 016 large tongs 15
KH 018 French rolling pin 8
KH 025 Pasta measure 10
KH 035 cheese knife 20
KH 051 pickle fork 15
KH 052 olive tongs 15
KH 037 Tasting spoon 20
KH 060 One handed salad hands 20
KH 065 Sm sugar scoop 20
KH 066 Coffee scoop 20
KH 070 Pizza cutting knife 15
KH 071 12" flipping tongs 15
KH 080 Wine and cheese tasting tray 2
KH 081 bakers scoop 15
KH 087 tottlers rolling pin 20
KH 093 bread knife 20
KH 097 lettuce knife 20
GMA 004 Fish game 15
GMa 008 Score toss game 10
GMA 020 flipp pity Flop.... 20
Per 010 Maple folding card holder 25
Per 012 Women's compact mirror two tone 40
Per 028P Dulcimer pin 10
Per 028M Dulcimer magnet 10
dog ornament set up
Christmas ornament set up
Military plaques that we talked about.