PDA

View Full Version : Desk Organizer



steve_g
09-25-2014, 11:54 AM
Here’s a project from concept to finish… My customer sent me a photo and said “something like this” I did a model in SketchUp and got approval. Importing the vectors into V-Carve Pro from SketchUp went flawlessly!

I had planned on making the project from ¼” sheet goods but couldn’t make myself do it… I re-sawed some 8/4 white Oak to 5/16”.

I don’t know if my construction method would be called modified Box-joints, Mortise and tenon, slot and tab or a combination of all three! If I build this again, I’ll watch the tabs that run with the grain… Two broke off during assembly, it wouldn’t have been an issue with the sheet goods I had originally planned to use.

Assembly was tricky it had to be done in the right sequence! I kept trying to mess up but sanity prevailed!
The organizer is assembled, sanded and sealed… now to paint it black… :(

In retrospect… If I were to make it again, especially if in quantity, I’d use dados, rebates, and staples.
SG

dlcw
09-25-2014, 01:06 PM
Nicely done Steve!!!

You are going to paint 1/4 W/O black?

Blasphemy I say (kidding). :D

Kinda like when I had a customer have me make a TV credenza from mahogany and then finish it with black lacquer :eek:. Bummer...

Steve Wonser
09-25-2014, 01:14 PM
It looks great Steve! Thanks for posting all of the pictures it helps rookies like myself see the process in using the ShopBot to build things.

chiloquinruss
09-25-2014, 01:53 PM
OK, I'll bite what's a 'rebates'? If it ain't a choo choo I'm lost! :) Russ

OK, Google showed me, a rabbit, got it! Thanks for the exploded view that helps a lot! Russ

steve_g
09-25-2014, 02:06 PM
Not rabbit… rebate. It sounds like rabbit and is often incorrectly spelled that way. Another word often misused is “dado” it’s often used for grooves both with and across the grain. Technically it’s only those that go across the grain. A rebate is a two sided dado…
https://www.google.com/search?q=rebate+joint&safe=off&biw=1280&bih=888&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=OVgkVKuhA8ehyATc5oLIBQ&sqi=2&ved=0CB0QsAQ (https://www.google.com/search?q=rebate+joint&safe=off&biw=1280&bih=888&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=OVgkVKuhA8ehyATc5oLIBQ&sqi=2&ved=0CB0QsAQ)
My old teacher training showing…
SG

mtylerfl
09-25-2014, 02:28 PM
;)Interesting - never heard of "rebate joint" being the correct spelling for "rabbet joint". (for sure the spelling is not "rabbit"...that's the animal, of course)

I'm still doubting that "rebate" spelling. :confused:


EDIT: Found this - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rebate
Wikipedia says, "rebate" can be used instead of "rabbet", so it must be true! ;)...but, I'm still going to use "rabbet".

steve_g
09-25-2014, 02:54 PM
My schooling is nearly 50 years old… English is a dynamic language, things change! I’ll accept rabbet as a correct spelling.;)
SG

mtylerfl
09-25-2014, 03:27 PM
Verified - each version is correct. Something I did not know, so thank you for giving my brain a new wrinkle today!

This reminds me of the word "lithophane" (with 'ph' having the 'f' sound when pronounced). Most people say it and spell it as "lithopane" (they omit the "h" and pronounce a hard 'p' sound instead of 'f' sound). This is incorrect. But, the incorrect spelling and pronunciation is so commonly used now, it won't surprise me a bit that it becomes 'correct' also.

I won't even mention the folks that say "lithograph" when they mean "lithophane". Oops, I guess I did. :eek:

Oh, I forgot to say earlier, GREAT project!!

scottp55
09-25-2014, 06:14 PM
Like Don said, First I read and then saw the black picture and then thought "OH NO Steve, You didn't!" Whew:)
Interesting debate on rebate.
Now I'll have to learn SketchUp, Methinks.
Nice job Steve

myxpykalix
09-26-2014, 01:04 AM
You say potato, i say po ta toe..
you say tomato i say to ma toe...:D

steve_g
10-03-2014, 12:10 PM
I never posted a picture of the completed project... Here it is! I sprayed it with a flat black cheap rattle can paint and top coated that with a water base urethane. The look I was after was to be able to see the distinctive Oak grain, even though it’s black, it’s definitely Oak!
SG

scottp55
10-03-2014, 12:49 PM
What!! You didn't get the ammonia and a dry cleaner bag out and wait for a sunny day and FUME it in your driveway? :) :)
Looks great Steve!

myxpykalix
10-03-2014, 12:54 PM
black? black? you should be flogged for desecrating wood in that way!:D:eek::rolleyes: nice job buddy

Joe Porter
10-03-2014, 12:58 PM
Looks great as usual...I imagine some of these will start turning up as Christmas presents all over the country...joe

steve_g
10-03-2014, 01:01 PM
Scott...
I definitely considered fuming the oak... Near as I could tell from my research, the ammonia I can get at the grocery store isn’t strong enough.
Anyone have success doing this?
SG

scottp55
10-03-2014, 05:06 PM
Well Steve, This May(doubt it) teach me to keep my mouth shut:)
You'd think I had some Oak heartwood scraps around-Not. Just using Parson's household ammonia which will probably take forever.
Gustav Stickley wrote quite a bit about fuming in his "notes on finishing" which was reprinted and has his original finishes as well as 1992 version with modern alternatives(I would have no clue as to where to find"German Lacquer(clear lacquer),commonly known as "banana liquid",and adding a very little Lampblack, also ground in Japan.").
Pages 84-87 deal with Fuming, and alternatives and finishing in this book.
http://www.amazon.com/The-Furniture-Gustav-Stickley-Techniques/dp/094193635X


Should have cleaned my oven before I took pic:)

scottp55
10-03-2014, 05:08 PM
forgot the cutesy pic!
Thanks a lot. :)

scottp55
10-03-2014, 05:17 PM
Duh. "shallow dish containing liquor ammonia (26%)" "if the piece is too large" "a satisfactory result can be obtained by applying liquor ammonia (26%) direct to the wood........."

scottp55
10-12-2014, 10:48 AM
Steve, results from that highly scientific:) Parson's Household Ammonia test(kinda forgot it was still in the oven:). Control on left obviously. So 9 days does a tiny bit, but oak was 1987 dunnage from a steel building(I used to take all the oak and hard maple from the jobsite or the other guys took it for their woodstoves) and was loaded in Mississippi so not sure what Oak it is or tannin content.
Funny that household ammonia in 3 places I looked NEVER gives percentage? Asked pharmacist at Rite-Aid where I might find 26% and although Chris is great at oddball questions from me, he didn't have a clue.
I will try direct application after I cut and sand a new piece.
Just thought I'd save you the trouble-probably take a month,if at all to turn black. No New Oak to test, but wondering if Tannic acid degrades very much over time.

steve_g
10-12-2014, 11:43 AM
26% Ammonia is available from Blue Print supply houses... Ha! Now try to find one of those!
SG