Help with Vcarve/shopbot software/jig... yep im new :)

[Mr.Mediocre]

Hello all!!

Received my desktop a few weeks ago. Im looking for some assistance/ guidance.

Goal:
I made a jig to mill pockets in small blocks. The goal would be to mill out a pocket, then rotate 90-180 degrees and repeat.

The issue:
Im sure how to line the jig up in vcarve/shopbot to the table. So when I want to put the jig back on the table I can line it up in the same exact spot. To achieve the same results.

Thanks in advanced!!! :)

[MogulTx]

Well, I have a large machine with an MDF table- and am not sure you have the same thing... so take this with a grain of salt... but I would design with four "fixturing pins" into my design. Literally drill holes in my table and in my jig, in the same exact spots then insert pins ( in this case, probably very snug dowels) into the table, and fit my jig over it, and tap it down onto the pins. Then the jig would register the same way every time.

To allow you to turn the jig 90 degrees or 180- you will have to have a plan that ensures the pins are spaced such that they will be an equal distance apart at 90 degrees. And assuming the pockets are NOT symmetrical, I would make sure I designate 0 degrees rotation, 90 degrees rotation and 180 degrees rotation marks on my jig, so I always know exactly which pocket I am setting up to mill.

AND, because you can mill ALL the pockets on one side without indexing the jig, I am assuming that the pockets are on two opposing faces of the part you want to jig up. If that is the case, and you need to do anything that requires you to flip the jig over ( face side down) drill it such that the pin holes in the jig are all the way through. This allows your registration to be either side and any of four positions...

Clear as mud?

[Mr.Mediocre]

Im sure I could do that too but I need a separate jig that I can take off the table. I would like my fence to be as stationary as possible for less error. I need some way to zero out that jig so its square when I put it on. That way when I load my drawing into vcarve, I can put in the exact coordinate's in where to start my toolpaths.

Heres a couple pics of what I have so far for testing. I would like to have multiples on one jig so I can knock out a bunch in one sitting.

Thanks for the response!! Clear as mud?? I feel like Im doing a horrible job trying to explain it. :confused:259342593525936

[Brady Watson]

Im sure I could do that too but I need a separate jig that I can take off the table. I would like my fence to be as stationary as possible for less error. I need some way to zero out that jig so its square when I put it on. That way when I load my drawing into vcarve, I can put in the exact coordinate's in where to start my toolpaths.

There are lots of ways to do this. I am sure you'll get all kinds of methods.

You need two points on the jig that you can accurately reference. Say for instance, one @ 1,4 and another at 6,4 by burying your bit in those whole number locations with your bit - then writing those locations down in pencil next to the holes. When you come back to do the job again later, you'll C3, then align the jig to the machine at those locations. You can also use the VA command with the same holes to assign the tool's parked location to an XY coordinate that you specify - in this case, your 1,4 or 6,4 location.

Many times you can get away with marking the 0,0 location of your jig in pencil etc so you don't forget later, then use a sharp v-bit to align the Y parallel to the gantry of the machine - use the bit as a pointer. X0 (bottom left corner of jig) is referenced at the center of the v-bit. Y0 is to your accurately cut jig edge (and center of v-bit) and set parallel by line of sight using the keypad - driving it back and forth to align, nudging the jig as necessary.

I've used both methods with great success.

-B

[curtiss]

I cut a few shallow grooves in the table about .05 deep with a .0625 bit. (3 inch on centers on a 48x48 machine)

With a metal straight edge in the groove, it is fairly easy to square up anything and clamp it.

The groove is not deep enough to affect the vac system when I use it...

[jerry_stanek]

Or you could use dowel 2 pins just c3 then drill 2 holes through the jig in into your spoil board.

[Mr.Mediocre]

I got it all figured out now. Thank you for the ideas. Kind of did the same thing as Brady mentioned. Worked out very well. I lined up my Y then zeroed just the Y. Then did the same for X. Worked like a charm. Starting to feel it out more every day. Now a good 1/4" up cut with at least a 2" cutting length for roughing and one to smooth it out. Need some durable ones since I will be doing a lot of pockets in dense wood. :rolleyes: