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harryball
08-28-2006, 08:16 PM
E-Stop physically working but PC says it's engaged or missing on new PRTAlpha 96, has anyone else seen this? This is a new machine that was running as a demo at a show. I've set everything up but when I try to connect it reports the stop button is engaged or missing.

Can someone confirm the wiring order on the blue bock. Right now one N/C contact is attached to the left two wires and the other contact is attached to the right two wires.

Suggestions?

Robert

Ryan Patterson
08-28-2006, 10:40 PM
Robert,
If Shopbot did not remove the wiring for the E-Stop the wiring should be correct. In the Shopbot software you have the option to set the E-Stop up for N/C or N/O. Using the VN command Check to see if it is set to the right setting. I think it may also show the E stop being hit if you start the software without pushing the reset button on the control box first. Hope this helps if not Give Shopbot a call they are always helpful.
Ryan

harryball
08-28-2006, 10:57 PM
I'll have to call them tomorrow. It all appears to be functioning correctly, but the software insists the button is pressed or disco'd. I went through it step by step, deleted and reinstalled the software even, same results.

The unit did have 2 Z's on it and one was removed (I'm gonna need to get some stuff cutting before I can afford to put it back on) All the wiring is there and I wondered if something could be fooling the software...

Ahh well, my goal was to have it ghost cutting before I called it a day... didn't pan out.

Robert

beacon14
08-29-2006, 12:26 AM
Robert,

You are pressing the reset button (the one on the right) after turning the control box on, yes?

Off topic - Robert and I form an exclusive club - I bought the demo model from the 2004 IWF and he just took home the 2006 model.

richards
08-29-2006, 01:48 AM
Remember to twist the E-stop button to release it. Once it has been pushed, it stays pushed until twisted for safety reasons.

gerald_d
08-29-2006, 02:13 AM
Does anyone make an e-stop button that clearly shows that it is being held down by the interlock? There must be a gap in the market for someone to patent something like this.

harryball
08-29-2006, 07:25 AM
Yeah, I twisted it, smacked it, pushed it, took it apart, tested it and reassembled it.

After reading some other posts I think I'm going to manually jumper the pins in the control box this morning to confirm the issue is in the switch itself or the control board. I don't see how it's the switch unless it is flakey and my meter doesn't see the changes that are happening rapidly.

Robert

steve4460
08-29-2006, 07:57 AM
Are you turning the control box on and press the reset button and then start the software ?.
Try that .

dvanr
08-29-2006, 09:04 AM
The wago connector is known to cause problems. Pull the connector off and then jumper.

harryball
08-29-2006, 11:50 AM
I directly jumpered the connections, same problem.

In the software if I try to change from normally closed (as it should be) to NO I get a runtime error.

I've tried pressing reset before, after and during software start up. I've tried pressing the start button and so on. What DOES happen when I press reset with the software running...

While holding in the reset button the input 4 is light green. When I release the reset it goes to red with a yellow flashing around it and the wording changes to "lim DRIVER" above it.

Robert

harryball
08-29-2006, 01:13 PM
Got it, talked with ShopBot, there was a jumper missing inside on the 4th controller (2nd Z) that was overlooked when the 2nd Z was removed. It's running, jogging, moving, looking high tech... time to break out the 1/4" foam sheets!!

Robert