How do I increase V-carve depth of cut?

[tim_mcknight]

I have tried to increase the depth in the Tool Data Base \ Cutting Parameters \ Pass Depth but it doesn't make any difference.

Should I change the Cutting Depth - Start Depth from 0" to another value?

Another question - I am getting a lot of splintering and flaking around the upper edges of the V carve letters. My cutting speed was 2 in/sec and then I lowered it to 1.5 in/sec. Is that too fast or slow? Wood is dry seasoned Redwood and the edges tended to chip out whereas Baltic Birch plywood seemed to splinter out. The V bit is a new starter bit that came with the Buddy machine that hasn't been used very much.

[scottcox]

Tim,

The depth is controlled by the width of the letter or graphic that you are trying to v-carve and the bit that you are using.

If you want a very shallow letter, use a 120 degree bit. if you want a deep letter, use a 60 degree bit.

Or you can increase the width of your graphic by offsetting outward, or the making your letters bold, etc.

If that's not clear feel free to ask again or email and I'll draw some examples.

[ken_rychlik]

The v bit will only go down to where it cuts between the lines you tell it to. To make it cut deeper on an existing file, just lower the bit to a slight neagive number, then zero the bit there, then come up and recut the same file and it will cut deeper. The other way around it would be to design the area you are V carving with a wider area to carve.

The wood you choose for carving is critical to how well it comes out. I have been doing some Euro beech lately and it cuts beautiful. I have not used
redwood, so I can't really help you there.

[tim_mcknight]

How do I lower the bit to a negative number when I use the Z-zero plate? Thakns for the help thus far guys!

Another plus is I finally have my shop bot PC connected to the net. No more running back and forth between the shop and house. Woooohooo ;)

[ken_rychlik]

I would take it back off the net if I were you. You have to worry about virus problems and not to let anyghing else run in the background on the pc that is running the bot.

To reset the Z lower,,,, type the command MZ-.050,,, hit enter

That moves the z to a negative 50 thouusandth.

Next type Z Z That will zero the z at the current location.

Then move it up to a safe distance above your work and start the file again.

Kenneth

[ed_lang]

Be careful when moving the Z lower that you don't hit the table or work.

Here is another way..... To lower the cutter by 0.050"

Just add that 0.050 amount to the CURRENT Z position and enter that as the Z value by typing "VA" and entering that number.

For example, if your current Z position is 2.00 you would type the VA and in the Z box you would type 2.050 to LOWER the REAL distance the cutter will be at when you go to the next Z commanded position.

[ken_rychlik]

I learned something new Ed, Thanks. I always just run off the end of the work piece to do it the other way, but I guess your way is safer.

Kenneth

[tim_mcknight]

Will there be any issues with the bit dragging when it moves from letter to letter?

[scottcox]

Tim,

Check your "Safe Z" height. I believe that would be in your "Material Setup" dialog in PartWorks, listed as Rapid Z Gap above material. As long as that value is greater than your "additional" depth, you'll be safe.

OK, now back to Kenneth's suggestion. You absolutely want to take the ShopBot control computer off of the internet.... and shut down EVERYTHING but Windows and the ShopBot control software when running the 'bot. No anti-virus, no wireless networking, no design software, NOTHING but the ShopBot control software should be running when controlling the ShopBot.

Many (most) of us have a computer dedicated to only running the ShopBot and our design software (Partworks, Aspire, etc.) resides on a seperate computer. We move cut files to our control computer using thumb drives or similar methods.

This is very important as you don't want your computer to try doing other things when it's supposed to be controlling the 'bot.

[knight_toolworks]

to cut deeper set the start depth in the vcarve toolpath to however much more you want. this is better then setting the bit slightly lower then the material. you can see the results in preview that way.

[cowboy1296]

thanks steve. i have been having some serious issues with my shallow cuts being too shallow. i am going to try that in the next few minutes and like you said you can see it on the preview.

[curtiss]

just thought I would post this.

cdj

[navigator7]

OK, now back to Kenneth's suggestion. You absolutely want to take the ShopBot control computer off of the internet.... and shut down EVERYTHING but Windows and the ShopBot control software when running the 'bot. No anti-virus, no wireless networking, no design software, NOTHING but the ShopBot control software should be running when controlling the ShopBot.

Many (most) of us have a computer dedicated to only running the ShopBot and our design software (Partworks, Aspire, etc.) resides on a seperate computer. We move cut files to our control computer using thumb drives or similar methods.

This is very important as you don't want your computer to try doing other things when it's supposed to be controlling the 'bot.
Good stuff here.
I've broke ground for my shop recently.
My design puter is in my home and the the walk in rain snow and cold will be about 150' away. Unacceptable risk. I think an operator should be able to see and hear his machine at all times or until a file have been proved thoroughly through repetition.
All my equipment and programs are Mac based.
I plan to operate a Shopbot the same way.
I operated a 3D printer for about two years against the advice of sales on a Mac via BootCamp. Flawless...never a hitch!
My question is this:
When you partition between Mac and windoz via parallels.....The windoz side can be disconnected from the net as you suggest.
Does anyone do this now?
I don't know is if The Mac side can encroach on the puter affecting the cut file or not? However, depending on what is being cut....an error in judgement can easily meet or exceed the cost of a new puter!

Your post has confirmed I need another grunt 'puter and that I need to move my airport.

[bleeth]

Other than having enough ram and prefarably USB2 the SB operating computer can be an extremely bare bones basic box. Seems like severe overkill to go through setting up a Mac-partition-windows emulator for this. Even brand new the bot operator can cost as little as 4-5 hundred brand new. But if you wish to make three lefts in order to make a right be my guest.

[navigator7]

But if you wish to make three lefts in order to make a right be my guest.

Fair point. The thought of going Left is repulsive.
I'll spend the dough.

[Gary Campbell]

2 notes...

1) many have purchased lease return putors for under $200 that work well. Save the big $ for the design computor.

2) should you ever see how fast a fire spreads in a spoilboard with the vacuum on, you will never be more than 20 feet away from the machine when cutting. With no more notice than a barely audible "tink" of a bit breaking, mine spread to over a foot in diameter in the time it takes to hit the spacebar and vac switches. Many others will back this up.

Better to be left inside without the internet than to be right outside a burning building