1" Roundover Bit

[erik_f]

I'm not planning on using the 1" roundover in the Bot, but did buy a CMT yesterday for around $85 locally...I used the bit, and it is great, well balanced and gave a nice smooth cut. I found a 1" roundover on the Grizzly site for $30...I know I got a good price on the CMT, but what would I be giving up going the the cheaper bit? Will the CMT, most likely outlast the cheaper bit...have to be re-sharpened less? Better balanced? Still learning on router bits, and don't mind spending more when I can as long as its justified.

Erik

[kerrazy]

If I understand correctly, the CMT bits are laser cut, at my V-Bits are, which I think is a little more accurate, and offers a real clean edge. I have very good luck with CMT and still have the origninal 60Deg that came with my tool.

[erik_f]

Thanks Dale...thats what I'm looking for...something I can rely on...but there is always that little bird telling me i could have saved a nickel.

Erik

[bleeth]

Erik-Some years ago Grizzly bought out a US toolmaker called SY and started selling their bits under their own name-then they started having a lot of the tooling done in china. Independant tests have shown that for average use they are ok but generally (and specifically when compared to CMT or Amana) have an inferior carbide and so neither hold an edge as well nor take as many resharpenings. Never fear-you did the right thing!!
Dave

[erik_f]

Thanks Dave...The bit really has impressed me, as I'm not using it on the BOT...I was somewhat nevous about the using it in the hand router the first time (visions of blood and missing fingers)...but I think your right...I did the right thing.

Erik

[erik_f]

A crazy question...I have the cabinets almost completely finished, I stupidly put the staples need to hold it all together too close to the glue joint...will the carbide bit be able to safely cut the staples from the air gun? Or do I run a high risk of chipping the $90 bit and ruining it forever?

Erik

[beacon14]

you definitely run a high risk of chipping the $90 bit.
you might be able to countersink the staples below the cutting area using a narrow countersink and a "cordless" hammer

[erik_f]

yeah, thats what I figured I would have to do...I'm not sure if my batteries are charged for the cordless hammer
I wonder how long I can keep telling myself...but just think how long this would have taken if you had to do it by hand...and still have that excuse work? Thanks again David. I'll post a pic of the cabinets later...if your interested...you'll see why I needed to use the staples.

Erik

[spektr]

I use Grizzly Import router bits exclusively. I machine acrylic plastic as well as lexan. This stuff is INCREDIBLY tough on tools. I see virtually no difference in the performance or longevity that would make me willing to pay the extra money. I run patterning bits and straight cutters. I do not resharpen. The paper backed stuff I cut puts deep grooves in the carbide where the paper is cut. I make periodic Z moves to spread the damage. Resharpening means changing cutter comps for offset. I chose not to do this. In the giant scheme of things, you roll the cutter expenses into the job price, so why mess with it?? Scott.

[erik_f]

Well I will have a chance to compare...as I'm not willing to risk the new CMT bit...I decided to order a Grizzly 1" round over bit...with shipping it was $36...so caulk it up to RD cost! These are the first of many...so figuring out all these mistakes is expected...I can forgive myself for ruining a $30 bit...but I'll still be mad if it happens

[beacon14]

Erik,

Yes, post photos if possible please. My curiousity is aroused

[spektr]

When you staple the thing together, try this... Get some plastic strapping wrom a packaging company. Shoot the staples thru the strapping. After the glue dries, pull the strapping and the staples should come out. We do this when sheeting airplane wings with plywood. Works great. Scott.

[erik_f]

sounds like a great idea...I'll give it a try...here is a pic...I'm not sure if there is good enough detail to see what is going on, but the cabinet is made of many layers of 3/4 mdf...the shapes are cut so the boards that hold the speakers fit into place when all is said and done.
5008

[gerald_d]

Erik, now I understand why you want such a high tolerance level. Very interesting!

[erik_f]

Thanks Gerald,
They seem to have come together pretty well...I know it could have been alot harder than it turned out. The picture only shows one piece of 3/4" on the sides, they are doubled up to make it 1.5" thick now...and are going to have the 1" round over on all the corners...and if that goes well...I'm going to take them to the finisher and try and make some money with them!

Erik