Metal ID tags

[vab@visionartonline.com]

Has anyone cut and engraved on any metal sheets? I need to make some ID tags for a company " 100 pieces to be exact" to be put on their shipping baskets. The size is about 2 1/2" by around 5" in size and then I need to engrave their company name and address on the pieces. The thickness of material to be used is about 1/16" thick, sorry I do not know scale thickness. Can this be done on the SB?

James / Dallas area

[rgbrown@itexas.net]

James,

The real problem might be the scale of the letters and holding 'small' pieces. I would use a simple font and as large of letter as possible.

Where in Dallas are you......I am about 80 miles SW of Dallas.

Ron Brown - rgbrown@itexas.net (mailto:rgbrown@itexas.net)

If Stupidity got us into this mess,
then why can't it get us out? - Will Rogers

[sheldon@dingwallguitars.com]

What type of metal? Aluminum and Brass would be OK but would need the edges de-burred on a belt sander or scotchbrite wheel and then buffed if you want them really smooth. Anything ferrous would be a no-no.

You might try a 1/32" tab at opposite ends to keep things from moving around while profiling. Then the part can just be twisted out of the sheet afterwords.

I find that the router blows too much air down towards the cut to keep coolant in place, so a wax lubricant might work better. I've had success with parafin based bicycle chain lube on thin brass shim stock. YMMV.

I'm having trouble keeping my depth true. Something's shifting I think, but I haven't tracked it down yet. On my machine I'd have to pay special attention to leveling the work surface so that the engraving depth would be absolutely consistant.

[ctoddh]

James,
I did some etching work on copper sheets about 5 months ago. I took a broken 1/8" bit and filed it down to a point to create an "etching bit". I ran my router on the lowest speed to keep the bit from dragging in the metal.
It turned out decent, but as Sheldon said the surface must be perfectly level since you are only etching in a small distance.
I also found out I got a better result when I tacked the metal on to a piece of hardwood as opposed to cutting it on the MDF tabletop.
Todd

[danhamm@abccom.bc.ca]

Your best bet for hard material is a diamond drag
bit with a spring tension adjustment...
"Don't start your router"...
For softer materials a burnishing bit diamond or carbide again with a tesioning adjustment..it will take out the elevation deviations in bed and
material...
Pay a visit to your local engraver that does plaques and stainless work and have a look at his
engraver setup...

[James Burnell]

Thanks everyone for the input. Ron I actually live in Mesquite Tx, right off of 635.