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bpfohler
09-29-2007, 02:09 AM
I see some signs in my area with painted PT post and they look like garbage. Warping, cracks and peeling paint.
Would fir posts hold up better if they were sealed with epoxy then painted.
Some of the customers in my area don't want to pay for the costs of fluted columns or cement and metal posts. Since I hate to turn down work (even though it's not my full time gig) I love making signs.
Any suggestions?

harryball
09-29-2007, 10:04 AM
Cedar posts.

Gary Campbell
09-29-2007, 10:30 AM
Robert...
You may also want to look at something that is Kiln Dried After Treating. (KDAT) PT lumber is "steamed" full of liquid in a pressure vat. The less expensive versions are sold before they are dry. Paint peels for the same reason.
Gary

harryball
09-29-2007, 10:57 AM
I've tried dried PT lumber for bat house posts, it does warp "less" but it does still warp some and split over time in the sunlight. I can't speak to the paint as we don't paint the poles.

Robert

Brady Watson
09-29-2007, 05:39 PM
If you want something maint-free, then you might want to look into PVC posts. They're really cheap too:

External link to Harbor Sales (http://tinyurl.com/yqj7cx)

-B

joe
09-29-2007, 06:53 PM
Robert,

You make an excellent point concerning sign posts. Like you, I see many nicely designed and fabricated signs that are put up with weak splintery standards.

One technique we have resorted to is faceing our 4X4 or 6"X6" post with Extira, Homosote or other exterior grade lumber. This also gives us the opportunity for flutes. As you mentioned, flutes do take extra time so we do this on our more pricy work.

I've previously posted some techniques used in making a good looking set of posts. You might want to check these out. Another little trick we've resorted to is a 3" pvc cuff around the bottoms to help with weedeater damage.

Glad to see you're interested in one of my favorite subjects. Decorative posts can add quality to signage.


Joe
www.normansignco.com (http://www.normansignco.com)

bpfohler
09-30-2007, 08:22 AM
I thought about using Extira, it seems to be inexpensive. I have read some post that people found them tough to work with because the paint doesn't stick to them well.
I recently found a new primer from ICI paints (formally Glidden ) called Gripper. This stuff will stick to you teeth.

joe
09-30-2007, 02:31 PM
Robert,

I just posted in the "General Discussion" about the subject. Keep in mind there are several exterior grade siding materials which come 12"X12' at a reasonable price. Lowe's has several brands.

You will probably need to make a cuffs for the bottom to protect the post from lawn mowing.

Joe
www.normansignco.com (http://www.normansignco.com)

jamesgilliam
09-30-2007, 03:34 PM
Robert, While cedar is a good choice, and Joe has very good ideas of wrapping the posts with other materials, I usually stick with aluminum tubing. It comes in several sizes, thicknesses, the sun and insects won't be a problem either. Before you go this route be sure you have access to someone who welds aluminum, and that they know what they are doing. My last big job I used 2" square tubing for the main frame of the sign. The two pieces were 21' long and were about $50.00 I had priced the materials portion of the job to include the cost of the welding, and when I picked up the frame you had to look close to see any seams. Frame was 8' wide and 13' tall, with 3' into the ground the sign stands 10'.


5654

carlcnc
09-30-2007, 11:57 PM
James
what was the wall thickness of your 2" tube?
we are paying 3$+ per pound in Seattle area,
your 42 ft [if .25 wall] would cost me over 250$
.125 wall half that!
I should by from you and truck it !

carl

jamesgilliam
10-01-2007, 10:10 AM
Carl, It was .125 wall. Are you getting your price direct from a metals distributor or going through a resale location? What grade aluminim did you get prices on? I always get 2024-T3 for my square tubing, angle and flat bar. Having worked in the steel world for 20+ years I have a few contacts in the area. Only problem with that is between pricing and picking up the cost can change, but it is usually minimal. Buying the same pieces from a local resale shop would have been at least twice the price, and Trident does have a minimum for me to buy, so I usually stock up when I go. I am not sure that trucking it from here to Seattle would save you any money. Here is a link to the people I buy from, www.trident-metals.com (http://www.trident-metals.com) . The closest location to you is in LA.

James