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upsman
05-30-2009, 04:44 PM
Hi all “newbie” I am working on a sign with my first 3D artwork. I am cutting in pine (my customer brought it to me.)
I am not getting good results. The 3D art work is coming out fuzzy and very large chips in some areas; is this because the pine is too soft or do I need to adjust my setting on my bit. I’m using a .125 ballnose (77-102) with a feed rate of 5” per sec. a plunge rate of 5” per sec. and a spindle speed of 15,000. I also went to a .625 ballnose (52-280b) with a feed rate of 2” per sec. and a plunge rate of 4” per sec. and a spindle speed of 14,000. It did not look much better.

I am using ArtCAM pro 2009 as my design software.
My bot is a PRS Alpha 60/120 w/tool change.
Just looking for some input will post photos later if I can.
Tim

steve4460
05-30-2009, 08:51 PM
Your running to fast try 3"ips feed 1"ips plunge and a 9% stepover
www.windwardsigns.com (http://www.windwardsigns.com)

ken_rychlik
05-30-2009, 10:56 PM
To fast of feed speeds and the pine is going to fuzz on you. The harder the wood, the less fuzz I get.

khalid
05-30-2009, 11:24 PM
Can you tell us the stepover values? your speed value seems fine to me because :
The speed you put in the CAM is not you get in the actual world...The acceleration/deceleration of the machine will make the speed less than 2"/sec...

1- Try to make stepover 10% and use sharp tool...
2- Always cut across the grain..You can check the grain direction on the pine...and then change the angle of cutting parameters in CAM..
I hope this will help you...

upsman
05-31-2009, 07:29 AM
thank's for the help

what is the better bit the the 1/8 or the 16 ballnose?

Are the setting rates going to be the same on both bits?

Thank you
Tim

khalid
05-31-2009, 07:48 AM
Depends upon the relief file and the details you need...Normally majority among us using 1/8" ball nose with 10% stepover. Yes the setting may be kept same for relief or 3D carving only (For Pine wood)..However for Profiling you will reduce the Feed rate and DOP for the smaller ball nose / end mill cutter..
Does it make sense?

PS:
It will help us if you post few pictures of the work you did on that Pine wood..

joe
05-31-2009, 08:54 AM
Khalid is right. Without a photo we are're at a disadvantage to assist.

I've noticed that 3D carving is very visual! Why O Why do people ask for assistance without showing us the problem?

myxpykalix
05-31-2009, 12:51 PM
"a picture says a thousand words"

rcnewcomb
06-01-2009, 08:36 AM
quote:Always cut across the grain
I always try to cut WITH the grain. My experience is that any tooling marks are less visible.

When I have done 3D work in pine it did leave fuzz. But applying a sanding sealer and then sanding allowed it to clean up very nicely. 3M makes a Scotch Brite Combi-Wheel (http://3mcreativearts.thomasnet.com/viewitems/abrasives/scotch-brite-0153-combi-wheel?&forward=1) that attaches to your drill that is a great tool for sanding 3D work. Use the Fine grade, the Medium is way too agressive.

ghostcreek
06-01-2009, 05:04 PM
My two cents, I use sponge sanding blocks (3M) on my 3D work, takes care of all fuzzy's. I have gotten these sponges down to 320 grit.

upsman
06-05-2009, 03:20 PM
Hi all thanks for the input, sorry I got sick this week and could not get back any sooner.

Here is a photo


5717

This was done with a .125 ballnose