View Full Version : Need help with my sign logo
kevin
08-25-2009, 08:17 PM
I am making my first sign for my shop. I am using Baltic birch - 3/4 plywood, on a 4x8 sheet. I want to put my logo on the top right hand corner. I have spent hours driving myself nuts and still cannot find anything. It has to be seen from the road. Any suggestions? I am happy with the rest of the sign. I used a V-card. Thanks
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courtney2018
08-26-2009, 01:21 AM
Maybe a pic of a guy chiseling out a piece of wood similar to the New Yankee Workshop. Where Norm is cutting something on the table saw, replace that with a guy holding a chisel and a hammer. Just an idea.
myxpykalix
08-26-2009, 04:29 AM
This thread is going to be like the one with the guy wanting a sign for his truck. There will be many designs because there are many different tastes here.
My first suggestion is to delete all the small writing below the phone number. If this is a sign people will be seeing as they drive by then you only have 1 to 2 seconds to tell your message. They won't read all that.
I suggest you get a logo or carving that will tell your story in a picture like Courtney suggests above.
Pick a thicker font and make it larger since you won't have all that writing below you can use that space.
K I S S-(no i'm not flirting with you!) Keep it simple stupid, is the motto you should follow.
The best advice I can give is simple---"ask Joe".
joewino
08-26-2009, 09:42 AM
First of all, your sign should reflect the best of what you do. Like others will say, stay as simple as possible and the shape does not have to be a rectangle.
Avoid monotony.
If you are going to produce signs, then the design of your sign should be yours. If a client comes to you and wants a sign like yours, if someone else has designed it, then you are stuck.
burchbot
08-26-2009, 12:29 PM
I would drop the custom concrete. When I first saw that. Concrete patio came to mind. It wasn’t until I got to the small print that I knew it was countertops. Like Jack said you will never get a chance to read.
Dan
curtiss
08-26-2009, 01:26 PM
Not sure what the speed limit is on the road in front of the sign, but it is a lot to read at one time ...
kevin
08-26-2009, 05:51 PM
Thank you everybody for your feedback. Does anybody have the vector for a guy chiseling out a piece of wood similar to the New Yankee Workshop?
donchapman
08-26-2009, 07:06 PM
Ray's right: Keep it simple.
You have way too much info on one sign.
Make 2 signs, one for woodworking and another for concrete work since the two aren't generally considered to be associated.
Eight is about the maximum number of words most people will ever read on a single sign.
Find a very simple graphic (probably much simpler than the New Yankee Workshop graphic) to add interest to your sign. Maybe a chisel or plane for the woodworking sign and a trowel for the concrete sign.
Don't try to reinvent the wheel. Search this forum for photos of work by Joe Crumley and Raymond Chapman and steal whatever you can from their great designs.
The layout advice of the late Mike Stevens remains the best source for sign design and you can find his book at signcraft.com
You're going to learn by doing, so just do the best you can right now but expect that you will look at it some months from now and realize you can do it better.
Multiple dimension...Vector art 3d model #50435 or #50436 would look good. www.vectorart3d.com (http://www.vectorart3d.com)
I would look for something other than BB ply for an exterior sign...solid wood at the very least.
Gene Crain
www.plantasymaderas.com (http://www.plantasymaderas.com)
myxpykalix
08-27-2009, 02:02 AM
I changed my mind on your sign...keep everything on the sign and just install a speedbump in front of the shop.....
...............................
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I'd consider using the name as top header and list the services below. That way you could update without much effort.
I'll send a DXF if you like.
Perhaps you should do as I do, cheat, copy, and steal every good idea you can. And if you get caught, deny it by at all means. If someone ask you to do something you know you're not capiable of pulling off, steal a good idea and sell that. I do.
Joe Crumley
www.normansignco.com (http://www.normansignco.com)
kevin
08-27-2009, 09:10 AM
I am humbled. It took me 2 seconds to say "yes" to your offer. All you guys are absolutely right. Joe, the information on the posting is huge. I will take this sign. Please e-mail the file. Thanks again. I am floored!
Kevin
Kevin,
It's sent.
Joe
curtiss
08-27-2009, 10:00 PM
It sort of takes away that 4 x 8 sheet of plywood look... which I suppose is why you have a Shopbot...
looks to catch a bit less wind too
d_m_a_n
08-28-2009, 02:34 PM
Nice Joe!
It would sound better if you say that you get "inspired" by other good ideas, as opposed to "stealing"! LOL!
Your design looks great.
kevin
08-28-2009, 04:35 PM
I'am learning alot here thanks
Should I use part work v2 or I have a 2 year old copy of artcam.
Or Aspire 2 but i can't aford it yet.
Any feed back would be help full i JUST WANT TO KNOW WHERE I SHOULD BE PUTING MY EFFORT IN SOFTWARE
Yes i will use pine
Damon,
I'm sure your right. The word stealing is very negative. The reason for my exagerated post was to encourage everyone getting started that it's OK to use other artists concepts.
You know the apprentice ship program under Michage Angelo, Leonardo, or all the famed artist prior to the 19th century was to copy and copy till you have it down. In my opinion, it's foly to begin without help of other skilled artists. Even if you aren't "Inspired" it's necessary to copy and practice. It's just like learning to play the piano. Before you start composing, unless your extremely gifted, it's best to practice, using other artists work as a model.
Please post some of your work. We don't have enough sign fellows showing up over here. Everyoneis welcome to display their creativity.
Joe Crumley
www.normansignco.com (http://www.normansignco.com)
kevin
08-30-2009, 12:15 PM
I am struggling through by using Art Cam. I have locked myself in the shop to force myself to learn this. I have figured out the 3D part. All the tool path get confusing. I will try them 1 at a time and go from there.I have enlarged the sign to 8' long due to the fact that there are posts already installed on my property. Hopefully by the end of the week I will have a sign.Thanks for the help.
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Kevin,
There are several techniques which can be employed with this sign. Some works better than others with this particular graphic. For Example, the top decorative panel is best done wih a V Care since there's so much detail. I'd leave it natural and use only stain.
What other techniques are you trying to do and with what materials are you using?
This is a good excercise which will pay off in the future. Keep us post with your progress.
Your sign does not tell anyone what you do...other than you accept no substitute.
RIB
Richard,
Please review the previous post. There will be changeable panels listing his services.
Joe Crumley
www.normansignco.com (http://www.normansignco.com)
Oh, I thought he was dropping them...
RIB
kevin
09-03-2009, 06:49 AM
I've finally furged out how to do the raisded letters .
Ready to buid I want to use cherry 2 reson 1 I have lots left over 2 I can get a real nice color
Question is there problem with cherry exterior
I'am very experican in exterior wood finishes I know limation I figure its worth the extra work to keep adding clear coats.
I woul like to try gold leaf lettering.
Thanks for the help in advanced. You;ve really opened up my eyes
ghostcreek
09-03-2009, 04:48 PM
Kevin (and all), good luck with your sign. I was in agony over mine. It seemed to me (like Jack said) there are many opinions, but only you know what you want to represent you and your work. Glad to see you are on your way. I took 3 months to figure out what i wanted. All the great suggestions are a help (they also helped me with idea's for other sighs for clients.) I am having trouble with clear coats for my signs due to the heat issue here. I've never tried Cherry for an outdoor sign. I have had good luck with: Pine, Cedar, Redwood, Composite Decking and Mahogany. Trouble with using composite decking material, making glue-ups. I don't feel real happy with the strength of the joint. Good Luck and Enjoy the sign, hope it gives you lots of calls.
kevin
09-07-2009, 12:48 PM
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6320
I finally routed the sign. stained and clear coating is next. The bottom part explaining what I do will be forthcoming. The letters on the top part will be done in gold. I decided to leave the wood look with 1 coat of stain. The pictures are low quality because I am using my camcorder. I will post at the end of the week. Thank you for all your help. What I have learnt is worth 10 years experience. Any suggestions?
Good going Kevin,
If this were my sign, I'd cut all the letters for another material to be gilded and applied. There are two reasons: First is the added depth, followed by the ease of gilding. It's been a long time since I've produced a sign like this and didn't apply letters to the surdace.
Cherry isn't a very good exterior material. I'd suggest using Mahogany.
Joe
kevin
09-08-2009, 08:25 PM
Thanks for your comments Joe. You have inspired me. I'll try your suggestions for the bottom half of my sign. What you do is light years ahead. I found this to be a huge learning curve. My shop is busy now and I did my sign late at night and between deadlines. I agree with you on the mahogany but I can't get it in this area. The front doors of my shop are made out of African Mahogany. I will put the sign up and I will push myself to do raised letters that way there will be a 2 different samples.There will be a roof over the sign as a protection. I am aware that I will have to clear coat the sign every couple of years but it doesn't get at hot as down south. I will put both signs back to back using plywood in the middle and polyurethane glue and that should take care of any drying issues. If it fails, next year I will be doing a Mahogany sign. I will try to get a better picture. The sign does look killer. I look at the old one compared to the one you designed and it is like comparing kindergarden to university. Thanks again. Kevin
Kevin,
I've found hard coats like poly's don't work very well on exterior wood. Their nature is to crack and peal with the natural expanion of wood. I like Sikkens, Log and Siding, which comes with the necessary UV inhibitors.
Kevin,
If and when you get around to cutting your letters, I'd suggest a thin material like dyebond or 1/8" PVC. I don't know why, but a thin stock looks more appropriate.
That's what I've done on this panel.
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ghostcreek
09-09-2009, 01:13 PM
Sikkens makes great products. I prefer their Cetol 1. Breathes better. three coats has worked for me.
kevin
09-22-2009, 07:45 AM
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Finally finished first part.Note i will cap the posts with flutes and roof with light . It should tie in nicley .Plus I've made it simply to remove a few feet away from a spray booth.
Used fake gold leaf reason afraid to touch real gold first time.I will use real gold leaf any tips on apliction for outside. Yes I've read old posts.
Ready for the second part I'am going to hang it underneath
will say
Kitchen Cabinets or Custom woodworking
Concrete Counter Tops
Phone and Web
Joe Your double lettering above is awesome did you do large then small . Pvc did you paint or use orignal colour.
I know you sand blast I'am not setup for it do you think with texting with the cnc you get the same results. The renal shop down the road sandblast.
The crest top center was sold for a fire place mantel element. I will call it the Crumley Crest.
You where right it does pay off.
Any changes for yhe bottom section or leave alone I will speed it up I'll keep it simple using blue and white to match the building.
Thanks again it looks killer the photo is done with a cam poor quality
FYI the clear coat I used epifanes http://www.epifanes.com/home.htm
Good for you Kevin. It's a champion job for the first time out.
About the gold: If you cut your letters from DiBond they can be gilded at your leisure and applied to the sign at any later time. When gilding over background materials, it's best to apply a medium yellow color first. That way flaws in the gold won't be as noticeable.
I'm a little concerned about your other panels hanging below. They may be subject to whiplash.
Good luck with your business.
Joe
www.normnsignco.com (http://www.normnsignco.com)
khalid
09-22-2009, 09:41 AM
Very beautiful sign.. I think you have a good potential in sign making.
------------------------------------
http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
butch
09-23-2009, 06:18 AM
Well, that caused me to trash my 'design' for a road sign. Great job Kevin and Joe.
Do you need to anchor the sides with chains?
I would make a board to span the posts and make my information signs on them.
Great job, thanks for posting.
Butch
curtiss
09-23-2009, 09:02 PM
The "Cabinetmaker" sign might bring in
more "sign business" than "cabinet business..."
quite a change from the top of the link...
Somehow I don't think Kevin is finished with his concept.
This could easily devleope into a Post & Beam project, showing off his cabinet and wood working skills. When time and money come around it be very difficult to beef up posts by applying some 2" stock on all sides. And a couple "Woodworking & Cabinet" routed crossmembers between the posts.
A decorative "Address" on top might just set her off.
I better hold up on suggestion for now. It's getting dark and the chickens need to be put up.
Joe
www.normansignco.com (http://www.normansignco.com)
Woops,
I was meaning to say "When time and money come around, it wouldn't be too difficult to beef up the post"
kevin
09-27-2009, 06:30 AM
I would just like to thank every one for there respose and Joe who inspired me . I use to see sign and not take a second look now I;am looking all over rhe web.
Plus I.ve read the old post second time around it makes more sense.
A while ago I read a post called ahaa .I realised how all you people help each other in this form for real no bs.I join the form next day I realized you where just like me.
The work that is here is mind blowing .
I will anchor the sign down.I've bought some pine hope to finish the sign in 2 weeks or less.
kevin
10-27-2009, 03:05 PM
6323
Finally finished its archored at the bottom
Thanks again for the help
Also on another note for newbies
The shopbot has turned this slow shop into a mean cabinet shop.
I settled on using cabinet pro due to time I could not spend on shopbot link and ecabinet.
Very happy with cabinet pro
Did not relize the amount of Labour involed in signs.Will be a side line I'll see where it ends up .I do have the nicest sign in the area. Thanks Joe
butch
10-27-2009, 03:23 PM
I look where you started and the finished product. Fun to watch the transformation.
Looks very good.
Butch
myxpykalix
10-27-2009, 04:54 PM
As Butch says quite a difference from what you started with. It went from being just another sign to a work of art (or in this case (a work of Joe C)
You did a great job Kevin.
She's a beauty.
Your surround treatment realy sets the whole thing off. I'd suggest you use some small stainless guy wires attached to the sign bottoms. Wind can play havock.
I've found it helpful to have all the chain links tack welded together. The sign will swing much smoother.
Wish I'd sent you a couple of our Patented 8" postholes. There very popular!
Joe
www.normansignco.com (http://www.normansignco.com)
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