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A wire to one of my X axis motors got caught on something and it looks like it shorted two wires, and now the motor no longer drives. It only makes noises when trying to move. I checked it on the other X axis wire and the motor is not damaged.
I assume the driver in the control box (PRT 96) has been damaged. I know there is a 5th channel in the control box, but how to set it up as the alternate X axis?
Is this an easy fix on the board, if I go that route?
Thanks, Rob S.
I just had this same issue myself. I spoke to Frank at ShopBot and he pointed out that the easiest way is to switch the dip switches on the A channel to 1 to turn the drive into a X controller (this is assuming you have the older, non-4g board). You will lose access to the A driver for any other equipment, but it is cheaper than a new board to get you going.
Thanks Kevin, I see 2 sets of dip switches for the 'A' channel, the text is very small on both.
Got any more info on this?
Basically, Frank's instructions were to flip the switch from channel 4 to 1 in order to set up the drive as an x-drive from channel 1. Since the only difference between the two X drives is a change in the motor wiring to alter the direction (one moves clockwise and the other moves CCW), you have told the A channel to act as an x-channel. Plug your damaged channel cable in and go.
I'm still waiting to try it fully on mine, as my problem was a bit more serious than though. It seems both channels had some damage. Channel X-2 does nothing and I found a burn mark on the IC in channel X-1. X-1 seems to operate, but a new IC was only $3.58 at Digi-key, so I ordered the replacement parts and figured I would replace components on X-2 as well to see if I could get a fix. Parts should be here tomorrow.
My wiring was also damaged. I'm going to patch the current cables now, but I'm going to get new wiring. I also discovered the damaged Wago connectors can be ordered (since one was damaged when I purchased the used bot), so I'm going to get some of those. Heilend electronics sells Wago 231-104/037-000 and 231-604 which are the male and female connections used according to my local sales rep. I may order them as a trial replacement. Otherwise SB sells them for about $5 each or an entire cable assembly for $30. Just depends on how much DIY I feel like after the rest of the project.
I also am using this as an excuse to install e-chain and add plugs to the back for the e-stop and proximity switches using xlr connections. I may post some of the updates later on once they are done.
Hi Kevin, thanks for the addional info.
I have attached a picture of my dipswitches because I'm not yet 100% clear of which is which. Cheers.
Move the motor and pinion gear away from the rack on both sides of the x axis. Flip both dip switches to 1 and try to move the gantry in the x direction. One motor should spin CW and the other CCW. If all is good, then reconnect the motors and and off you go.
I think it is dip switch number 2 0n both step and dir . Please check with shopbot to make sure your right .
We just had to do this to my buddy's bot , and I could swear it was number 2 fliped to ON on both .
I would swear I flipped the DIP switches to 1. If one does not work, move both switches to 2. Easy enough to check both. I would power down the controller box before changing any settings however.
Unfortunately, my board had more problems than just one damaged channel, so I went to the 4g upgrade and can no longer check my older board.
On standard configurations:
Channel 1 = X axis
Channel 2 = Y axis
Channel 3 = Z axis
Both switches need to be set to the same channel.