Has anyone figured out how to make a 3 axis Z zero plate? (I would love a pre-made one but at $250 USD it would cost me about $430 Canadian with exchange, fees, taxes.)
Thanks
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Has anyone figured out how to make a 3 axis Z zero plate? (I would love a pre-made one but at $250 USD it would cost me about $430 Canadian with exchange, fees, taxes.)
Thanks
Many of us have done this using a copper pipe cap imbedded in a jig… should be many posts and sample code here on the forum…
SG
I searched, looked through 4 pages, not much there.
See if this search has what you are looking for…
http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/sea...earchid=237745
SG
Here's one that I found along with a rountine
Attachment 25872
Attachment 25873
can't find the original post on SB forum for this one:
https://www.etsy.com/transaction/1013709486?
It was only $30 + shipping, you might try contacting him thru Etsy and see if he still sells them.
Here is a dxf of the one I did. it is .75 thick clear acrylic and has a pocket for a .75 copper pipe cap
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve_g
It just brings up "no search found".
RB…
Sorry about the bad link… apparently I’m having issues cutting and pasting with windows 10… The search was for "super z" Leave the quotes!
SG
My version is in this thread - http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/sho...-Zero-able-Jig!
Here is the thread where the build-it-yourself 3 axis topic got introduced to the sweat fitting method. I posted several photos of my method in the post.
http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/showthread.php?13534-Setting-X-Y-Zero
I came up with the sweat fitting method on my own, there may have been other people who came up with the same idea prior to me, its pretty obvious. Its still the way I use to position fixtures, the main table, etc. I'm glad the idea has spread from whatever source it may have come from.
Also I have a custom superzero made out of aluminum. The sweat fitting method is so cheap, reliable, and flexible that I rarely use the machined part.
D
Here’s a typical jig setup for me… Having a super Z cap on the jig means I can locate the jig anywhere on the router bed (parallel to the X&Y axis) and quickly be set up and running…
SG
How accurate is the copper sweat fitting? How perfectly round?Quote:
Originally Posted by dana_swift
How do you measure the thickness for Z zero accurately?
Without it being inset into a thin block like the Super Zero how do you zero the X and Y with it?
The sweat fitting doesn't need to be round it could be square the bit touches each side and the the measurement it divided.
You tell the software the thickness of the zero plate
Without the super z you use the table limit switches.You would do a C3 command and the gantry moves to the X limit and backs off the offset that you have set in the SB setup software then it does the same for the Y. Every time you run the C3 it should go to the same spot on the table.
RB…
The beauty of the super Z is that its accuracy isn’t dependent on the precision of the copper cap… Mathematically, you’re measuring the length of the cord of an arc, going to its mid-point and repeating the measurement at a right angle to the first… Theoretically, the mid-point of the second arc is the center of the circle. If the cap isn’t perfectly round, running the routine the first time gets you close and running it the second time assures that the cords you’re measuring are the same ones every time, assuring repeatability.
In my case, I’ll first embed the cap in a fixture blank, zero with it and then build the fixture from that setting.
There are several ways to measure the cap thickness if you’re using the super-z in a manner that requires you to know it… One method is to zero a bit to the bed, next, with the z-zeroing wire clamp attached to the bit, lower the bit inside the cap SLOWLY using the “fixed” setting at only a few thou per click when you’re getting close, when the “light” on the channel the z-zero is hooked up to lights up read the DRO for your thickness.
Hope this helps!
SG