-
Elevate table to 42"
Okay- may sound a little crazy, but I've decided I would like my PRS9660 to be elevated to a healthier work height of 42". This would require a lift of 6".
Primary reason: Doing more work off end of table, and having limitations on length of workpiece. Also would find manual tool change easier with less bending over / getting on knees.
Best option I can think of: have leg extensions fabricated of metal to match existing leg posts, including threaded base for machine leveler feet.
Obvious concern would be stability, but I've already been contemplating adding side panels to firm up the frame, whether I lift machine or not.
Has anyone else done either of these modifications?
Any thoughts/ideas / examples appreciated.
(including telling me I'm insane, stop daydreaming and just get back to work..:o)
Jeff
-
I addressed the bending over/kneeling issue for bit changes by purchasing a roll-around mechanics stool. Perfect height for bit changes, Z zeroing,etc. It doesn't address the needing more height for end work.
I would think that if you fabricate the extensions to match the existing legs and had enough bolts to hold them together, it would effectively become one leg and should create a stability problem. The side panels or some sort of diagonal bracing would also work to stiffen the machine. I've been contemplating having my local high school metal shop fabricate some diagonal supports for my machine to keep it from shaking around so much.
-
I have a folding chair near the end of the machine for tool changes.
I suggest using extrusions from 80/20. You could easily build up a nice 4.5"x4.5" block and bolt the machine on top of it. These extrusions are easy to tap so bolting the machine to the extrusion would be painless. It would also cost maybe $100 including shipping, less if you bought the materials on eBay.
-
-
6 solid cinder blocks. Done.
The higher the machine is, the more it will want to do the Watusi...Weighing it down with sandbags etc will help stabilize it and absorb vibration.
-
How tall are you guys? I'm 6'1" and don't have to sit down to change tooling. Raise the Z to the top for a change. That said, +1 on the cinder blocks, but keep in mind that if you raise it up, you have to lift material up higher to get it on the table.
The older I get, the more the chance there is that if I sit down, I'm not going to want to get back up! ;)
-
Here is a thought you could poor concrete into a form with some leveling bolts in the form the concrete would help stabilize the machine and get you the height you want. Add some steel or rebar in the concrete for a very strong base I would make one for each set of legs on the machine.Mike
-
Personally I don't care for the idea of raising the legs on any kind of a post or block that isn't firmly attached to the machine.
They do tend to move over time
-
First off: (You're I'm insane, stop daydreaming and just get back to work..:o)
You can buy 6" longer legs from ShopBot for a few bucks. They are produced for the 12" Z models
-
Dave - I agree, but if utilizing the cinder block option, I planned on a bit of liquid nails around perimeter where block meets concrete shop floor, as well as where leveler foot meets block. Holds well under normal vibration, but can be chiseled off without too much trouble.
Running a bolt into concrete floor through a riser block was a thought, but I've got 7/8" pex in the new shop floor for heat. Friend has an IR camera, so maybe wait a few weeks for heat season to start, and we can locate those lines/verify that I can miss them or shuffle machine a bit to avoid them.
However, Gary's interjection regarding taller legs may be just the ticket. I'll check with SB to see what those run.
Thanks for all the suggestions!
Jeff
