After a lot of fund raising and crazy problems we are up and running thanks to my woods class and Scott Worden
Here are some pictures.
Getting Power
Assembling the table
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After a lot of fund raising and crazy problems we are up and running thanks to my woods class and Scott Worden
Here are some pictures.
Getting Power
Assembling the table
More pictures.
Making of vac table with two fein vacs
Remade Jim Stoddart's vac box to fit the new fein vac III
Little more.
First kid made project for our local Baseball team.
More to come....
Thanks for all the pics Kyle, helps me understand the full size better.
Trying to make it like Alison Stoddart's post but I think his is way to good and clean to beat.
First production run, props for a dance class that does free Zumba for our PE class.
Everything cut great but the bit slipped and the table will look a little fancy for a while (last picture is the table 3/16" deep:eek:).
Well Kyle-They look great and now you learned to crank down on the wrenches when tightening your bit! I make it a rule to set the wrenches so I can squeeze them together with one hand so I get a strong grip and don't waste half my strength pushing against the axis and possibly screwing up my x or y location.
(A day without learning something is a wasted day :))
Shop seems to lack dust...
Tie your wrenches together so you can lose them both at the same time.
As above, wrenches should be used at a small angle and squeezed together (like a scissors) to change bits.
The bit was tight but it was not high enough up in the spindle.
It was the first time I had a student do it. (guess I need to watch better).
Will be posting all the good and the bad.
Maybe if you got some gun bluing and dip the bits' shanks to the proper depth. Then you could have a teaching element and a visual cue to the proper depth.
No blue below, good to go. Or something. And the kids can also self monitor each other. :D
Good thinking, how long will the blue stay?
When you moved it for the first time, did you have your "Frankenstein Moment"?:rolleyes:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuoKNZjr8_U
Oh yes, also when the paper was here today I made a small error, I told the bot 0,0 was at the center of the table and then a ran a part that told it to jog 60 more inch in the x and I let out a big $hit when it hit the prox at 20 ips:eek:.
And it was all on tape (hope that does not make it into the story)
I thought the PRS had six legs... ?
I hate when that happens! ;)
The older prs's only came with 4 legs but you can buy the other 2 if you want.
New picture.
Kid doing the hand work on the first project.
Very nice setup
New hold down jigs first task hold down sheet to make prototype cam-lock, would like to make a nice one out of some Baltic birch.
Now we are ready to make some things, I think?
Thanks everyone for the help on the jig in my other post.
Painting our props.
There has to be a better way, the kids fine motor skills are bad, so painting the v-carving is looking very poor need some tips will post more pictures soon.
Kyle,
It would take years to improve their motor skills. If it is OK for the wood to show, try this:
1. V Carve the design
2. Use a couple of coats of sanding sealer on the top including the v carved recesses
3. "Slop" on the paint in the v carved recesses. Make sure it covers all of the V recess. Accidental paint on the top surface is OK. Wait for paint to dry completely.
4. Sand only the top until the slop is gone
Result - a perfect paint job!
Paul Z
Kyle, you made one of Scott W's for t-track! What would you do different? Congrats! I'm still procrastinating:)
Paul, Any particular kind of sanding sealer you like for natural wood finish, all I've got right now is lacquer and varnish---Usable? Using ash and trying to highlight cribbage peg hole countersink.
I meant sealer in the most generic sense. It's used to keep the paint from bleeding through on the top and from bleeding sideways in the v carve.
I haven't tried lacquer but I would expect it to work. It would have the added advantage of drying very fast! You might want to run a test to be sure the v carve paint will stick to the lacquer.
If the top needs to be painted, put on a top coat with an almost dry foam roller as the last step. It takes a while but keeps the top coat from running down into the V Carve.
Paul Z
Thanks Paul, Got to double check the sign guys. Thought about afterwards and should have searched first(what can I say-designing at 2am-should be an "Off" switch for brains:)
Scott, made a little video of the changes I would make if/when I make a new one.
http://screencast.com/t/LblgbGAwmG4
Kyle…
I have a jig I use when making large volumes of smallish parts… I found that adding a leather surface to the cam face allows me to stop anywhere in its arc. You can better see the leather in the photo of a cam clamp I make…
SG
Nice jigs.
I think the first thing I'm going to 4th qt. (first real class with the bot) is we are going to make jigs so I can show how important hold downs are.
Thanks for the vid Kyle. I think hold downs would be a great topic for a teacher as it's so important and it sneaks Physics in there:) Steve, nice jig and clamp! Any idea how eccentric you can make a cam clamp and still have it work well? Did you oil or treat the leather?
Scott…
My cam offset is ⅛” for a total of ¼” of motion. I haven’t tried for more but I can tell you that I’ll need a longer cam handle if I do!
The leather is “saddle string” from Tandy. However they tan it is the way I use it. I originally bought it for a cane handle wrap before my hip replacement… I found out the hard way that the color isn’t permanent! (at least the burgundy isn’t)
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/lacing/5008-200.aspx
SG
Steve, For one I'm doing next I need 1/2" (5/8" better). You're handle looks like 3 1/2" protruding? Would you double it?
Yeah, any of the reds can prove difficult with sweat and sun fading. Thanks for the leather link. I WAS going to cut a piece from half a "Utility" skin I've got($220:eek:). Now I'll use some old chrome tanned moccasin leftovers:)
Scott…
My cams are 3” from the center, doubling+ to around 7” sounds about right… My clamp body is two pieces of 12mm Baltic Birch milled and then assembled using the steel cam pivot dowel to help align all. The slit for the “spring” action is about 5”, if I was going for a greater range of movement, I would go longer if I was using Baltic Birch.
One change I’ll make next time is to let the hole for the pivot dowel go all the way through, so replacing the leather would be possible if necessary.
SG
Thanks Steve, Hope Kyle gets some use out of info too:( Don't like picking brains on someone else's thread(but I still do it:) much better than wedging for me, as I can't stand over it to knock the thin end of the wedges accurately.
Going to have to mod mine to hold the ENDS of the wood instead of the middle as after cut-out, there's just an 1/8" of wood and the tabs holding it together, but the ends of the wood have a good 1 1/2" of solid wood remaining.
Scott…
This discussion is pertinent to Kyles thread so I don’t feel like we’re hijacking! The jig I showed earlier has never had parts vibrate loose like I’ve had wedges do, the faces of the mechanism only move in an out so they don’t mar the face like cams alone or even wedges do. Also, this setup has much less tendency to want to tilt, lift or cant the material.
SG
Yeah, Had wedges loosen during cut-out on the last few passes, and I wanted SO BAD to do something! And the lifting issue is a constant annoyance with wedging. Got a Z critical cut on the back of an "almost not a proto" cribbage board, so I need to surface first,cut, and then cut out blanks. Now they're shaped will swap jig out and use pocketed vac or friction fit jig to do front face. Planning on fully finished blanks going to Acadian Congress fair in August and using pocketed jig to customize individually or in runs so people can watch the Desktop do its thing.
It was nice to see Kyle do his clamp so fast, and his pocketing into the side of his jig option never occurred to me.
Taking my post back!!:D
Kids running custom part for our chairs.
Sorry Kyle:o
First non v-carve sign.
Thanks to all the people of have posted on the sign forum.
Lookin' pretty good probie! :D
Nice Kyle, Did you do the compass rose?