Corian

We have a large art installation rapidly approaching for Bloomberg in NYC where we will be using corian as our main material. We will be using our PRS Alpha to not only cut the corian down from stock size, but also drilling. I have been told to use carbide bits for this material. I was hoping receive some feedback from those with experience on bits, how well I can expect the machine to perform cutting this material, as well as feed speeds etc. I was thinking a 1/4" flat end for profile cuts and I need the drill holes to be 1/8" dia.

Any feedback would be helpful!

Thanks

Corian cuts like butter with sharp bits. I just use the same bits as I do for cutting wood and I use the same speed as softwood. I don't have my settings here they are in the shop and I won't be back for a couple of days

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Originally Posted by Paramedia

We have a large art installation rapidly approaching for Bloomberg in NYC where we will be using corian as our main material. We will be using our PRS Alpha to not only cut the corian down from stock size, but also drilling. I have been told to use carbide bits for this material. I was hoping receive some feedback from those with experience on bits, how well I can expect the machine to perform cutting this material, as well as feed speeds etc. I was thinking a 1/4" flat end for profile cuts and I need the drill holes to be 1/8" dia.

Any feedback would be helpful!

Thanks

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it cuts like butter. Not sure what feeds and speeds to recommend for a prs alpha, but on my old prt I use about the same settings as I use for a hardwood like walnut.

Onsrud straight single or 2 flute "O" bit is made for that stuff and Centurian also has a great straight O bit. Also OK with downcutter of same geometry otherwise.
Always ramp in. I used 1/4" D mostly. 3 passes to go through 1/2" Corian (or other solid surface") with the last pass just being a skin cut. Spin slow-12-15K and move slow (1.5-3ips) exact numbers may vary depending on the final size and shape of the parts you are cutting.
The High Polyester blends are more brittle than the all acrylics. Your Alpha and Spindle will make your cutting go very smooth but don't try to rush it. Your final exact numbers will be determined by your ears, as per usual.
For drilling, if at all possible, I would use an actual drill bit made for plastic (or with the back spur filed at the bottom) and use peck strategy and spin your spindle slow (like a drill press-1200-1800rpm) and drill slow (.25-.50ips)
I learned from experience (hundreds of countertops) not to try to rush it.

Thank you everyone for your helpful information and tips with this material

We will be receiving sample corian material as well as drilling/milling bits here soon for testing. The corian panels will be a vertical installation at the end so we want to also test tongue and groove for the best bond possible. I found a info sheet from DuPont from 2009 with tongue and groove bit sources; however, they are no longer valid. In addition, my favorite bit suppliers do not have what I believe I'm looking for. I believe I'm looking for a 4-flute smooth cut carbide tipped with 1/2" shank. Would any of you have recommendations on bits or experience with tongue and grooving corian?

Thanks again for your replies.

Also to note we will be using both 1/4" and 1/2" material. From what I understand, some bits can used for both thicknesses.

I've done wall paneling with Corian using butt joining and no problems.
Glass handling type suction cups help make the alignment go smooth (a two or more man job-of course).
Finnish was a high polish so it had to be right or the reflections would be messed up.

We use "short" 5mm ø cutters to cut the 12mm thick corian. The toolpaths have 3 passes, the feed speeds should create shavings / flakes - not dust. We don't use tabs even on small pieces as there is some spelching of the back face as the cutter breaks though. We use circular leads with ramps to help eliminate this at the start point. You will find the swarf in the cut stops the pieces moving if you get the feeds and speeds right. We peck drill with a standard twist drill bit, again taking care not to spelch the back face. Counter sinking if needed we do with a 45º Vee bit. But generally any fixings if not covered by the inlay graphics have drill holes in pockets with pellets.

Attachment 31135

The edge quality of the pieces is good when the cutters are sharp and you don't push the feed speed. Getting good edges will help the lads doing the assembly. We have never used tongues and grooves although some assembles do have reinforcing pieces glued along the back of the joints.

We sometimes use onion skins to hold delicate pieces.

Sincerely and in good faith
Martin Reid