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finally had a moment to try the finger joint software on some eastern cedar. surprised me as it cut the sides and bottom loose first:eek: (but left the top) then cut the fingers works like a champ! :D will need to learn it some more but can see this being one of my go to programs!
Thanks G!
Yes, Neat program.
Tim, did you call out the exact wood thickness though? I'm used to seeing the ends of the fingers chopped off super clean, as the ballnose cuts into sacrificial board the radius of the ballnose plus whatever overcut you plug in. I haven't yet let the program cut the tops and bottoms yet and last time I used it ,it was still like maybe the third Beta version.
Been meaning to get back into boxes.
Good work.
scott
Scott, no I called it 3/8" thick in a 1/2" board so I could see how it cuts loose -
no vac hold down yet and wanted to make sure no UFOs ;)
Cool. Really nice to see people working with it! I rarely get feedback..
As for the cut sequence:
- it will cut off the ends first. This is the only cut across the grain and will have least tearout when done first while the board is still in one piece. If there is no lengthwise (side) cut specified, the software assumes the board is already cut to proper width and the end cutoff will start with a kind of sawing/pecking process to minimize tearout and splintering when breaking through the side.
- if you want to prevent the board from flying and don't have a vacuum pod (ideal) you can specify maybe 40/1000" onion skin. It will leave this thickness at the ends of the fingers. It is easy to separate later and the remaining nubs can be sanded flush when the joint is cleaned up after glueing. Warning: this does not work when doing half blind joints because one side does not have fingers left long enough to connect to the onion skin.
- next it will cut the drawer bottom groove or rabbet if this is checked.
- then it will do the side cuts if checked. The onion skin does not apply here. It will cut through. Keep in mind that the bit will go one ball radius plus "overcut" below the work piece. You need a sacrificial spoil board or just prop up the blank on spacers (or use a vac pod that is smaller than the cutting area).
- finally it will do the actual cutting of the joint fingers
In any case, you should measure the board thickness with a caliper and enter exactly into the software. Otherwise the joint will not fit properly.
Have fun!!
GB
Thanks again G, I will definitely be using it and I will post more pics - I have the Leigh dovetail jig and have used it for my boxes and trays but I love the fingers - the next one I will let it cut through, I just like to see what it does first:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Burkhardt
G. , Still haven't used the last iteration of Fingermaker. Used VCP to do layouts so I could use 2D solid preview and get as tight as I could and then choose my cutout bit. It also let me easily find object center and enter as text to speed/simplify for me. Also good to do because then I can copy to another layer/move to 0,0(my fences)/and then add decorative checkering/borders/carving.
If I wanted an "onion skin" on simply the top and bottom, but cut all the way through the fingers, is there a way to do that?
Got permission from Dan to show the 6 Fingermaker jewelry boxes that are Christmas presents for his daughter and friends wives(guys get flyboxes:) ), he said no way he could have done them in time without Fingermaker. Old pics, almost finished now and he said after he finishes getting ready for power outages (Ice storm here today) he'll send me new/larger pics.
Fingermaker at least will make 6 females Very happy! :)
Tim, Time to buy some .125" Ball Noses with 22-25mm LOC/CEL so you can get into the fancy little ones :)
G. Dan sent ones he took today. Positive feedback:)
Sorry for Hijacking your thread Tim :(
Awesome!! Thanks for sharing Scott:DQuote:
Originally Posted by scottp55
Yeah. And Dan P. is doing those on his homebuilt that is Superslow with a RotoZip for a router!
He has more patience than I do:)