Originally Posted by
Burkhardt
Cool. Really nice to see people working with it! I rarely get feedback..
As for the cut sequence:
- it will cut off the ends first. This is the only cut across the grain and will have least tearout when done first while the board is still in one piece. If there is no lengthwise (side) cut specified, the software assumes the board is already cut to proper width and the end cutoff will start with a kind of sawing/pecking process to minimize tearout and splintering when breaking through the side.
- if you want to prevent the board from flying and don't have a vacuum pod (ideal) you can specify maybe 40/1000" onion skin. It will leave this thickness at the ends of the fingers. It is easy to separate later and the remaining nubs can be sanded flush when the joint is cleaned up after glueing. Warning: this does not work when doing half blind joints because one side does not have fingers left long enough to connect to the onion skin.
- next it will cut the drawer bottom groove or rabbet if this is checked.
- then it will do the side cuts if checked. The onion skin does not apply here. It will cut through. Keep in mind that the bit will go one ball radius plus "overcut" below the work piece. You need a sacrificial spoil board or just prop up the blank on spacers (or use a vac pod that is smaller than the cutting area).
- finally it will do the actual cutting of the joint fingers
In any case, you should measure the board thickness with a caliper and enter exactly into the software. Otherwise the joint will not fit properly.
Have fun!!
GB