Locating 0,0

[srwtlc]

I thought about getting the prox switches after I bought my Bot, but to get started I made my own corner block that I place wherever I want and run a modified x,y zero file of the zzero file that comes with the software. It's just an aluminum angle screwed to a block of wood. I hook it up just the same as the z zero plate. I place the block where I want x,y zero to be, put in a broken off 1/4'" bit, position the tool close and run the file. It touches off the x first then the y and it's set. I realize that it may take a little more effort, but it works anywhere on the table.

Scott

[gerald_d]

Scott's method beats fixed proximity switches.

[rgbrown@itexas.net]

I think some of this is determined by how each of us uses his/her/its machine. I have some production Jigs with register plates on them. These plates are made to contact the shaft of the router-bit above the cutting edge. On some I have a "Z" plate also. These register plates allow me to reset the X, Y, and Z azis near the part.

On reflection, I think I have spent more time building register plates than I have saved by not registering my machine "2-Axis" near "0,0".

One of the nice things about America is we can do things our own way. We are all allowed to make our own mistakes and if we care to, repeat others mistakes. In fact our government requires us to participate in some mistakes.

Ron

[gerald_d]

Yeah, your government even requires us to participate in some mistakes.

(Moderators can delete this post if they think I have been serious at all)

[beacon14]

I use a somewhat similar approach to Scott. My Z-zero plate is a length of 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum bar stock with a wire bolted to one end, so I can use it anywhere on the table. I also use it vertically against a jig or fence to set the x and y locations, whether they be 0 or 62.25 or whatever.
A slight modification to the z-zero routine gives me x-zero, y-zero (or any other location), adjusted for the diameter of the bit I'm using.
It also makes it easy to put a jig down on the table, since I can put it anywhere and let the ?-zero routine tell the 'Bot where the fence is, and go from there

[kerrazy]

The machine has a nice built in measuring system, that I use all the time, especially if i do 2D offsets.

Once you have your material placed where you want it just zero it to your origin of the material, and than you can use J2 or M2 to move the machine to the co-ordinates you desire and run your file using the 2d offset. It works like a charm and you have not lost your orignal home position.

I too have prox switches and am sure you can add a routine to the program to move to the middle of your table rather than the lower left corner.

I am constantly using the 2D offset feature when i run several pieces with multiple bit changes of the same item. I just load up my table with blanks. Home to the first blank, run the part file. I then move to the next origin point on the next blank, and rezero my z then reeun the part file selecting the 2d offset feature and Bob's your uncle. I do make sure I wright the co-ordinates of each piece right on the blank so there is no confusion. This way if I miss a step for some reason I caneasily reset and carry on.
Dale

[garbob]

I just can't restrain myself from putting in my low tech opinion, specifically for a zero z axis plate. I went through a bin of square electrical junction box covers and found a perfectly flat one for $0.22 CDN. Big bucks! I'm a terrible solderer but I finally managed to solder the lead from the controller to the plate and then siliconed the leading edge to the top of the plate. Now when I zero the axis there is really no aiming of the bit involved, I just throw the plate near the head on the table and guess the coords. or use the K command to zoom over the plate and run the z zero command which uses the plate thickness of exactly 1/16" (0.0625). Tada, I'm done. I just can't imagine having to line up the bit up over these skinny bars you guys use!

[beacon14]

Gary;

It's the other way around - wherever the bit happens to be, I slide the "skinny" bar under it (usually the dust skirt gives me a nice bit of tension to hold the bar in place) and hit "C3", which is my shortcut for the z-zero program.
The wire which is attached to the bar runs along with the other wires to the z axis, and there is a holster for the bar on the vertical strut of the z axis, so wherever the tool is, so is the bar.
It's that easy.

[gerald_d]

The size of the plate is not as big an issue as the weight of it being able to resist the strain of the wire trying to move it around. A telephone handset "curly" cable works great.

[jay_mack1@hotmail.com]

THANK YOU

I started this string, so I thought I would add this message to the end of it. After sic months of looking, talking and discussing with all of you. My shopbot is on the floor at ShopBot Tools.

Gerald D... ...Thank You
Dale Kerr... ...Thank You
Ron Brown... ...Thank You
Kevin Fitz... ...Thank You
Brady Watson... ...Thank You

All the others... ...Thank You.

I am looking forward to the deliver, set-up and my first few projects. I hope with my AutoCAD programming experience and my drafting talent as well as my artistic feel, I'll be able to give a little back to you. You have given me so much information, advice and help with my decisions. Thank You.

I hope to make some more great relationships with this venture as well as help the next little guy up the steps.

When I get up and running, I am sure I'll have a few things to ask and a few to add back into the group.

If anyone is interested in starting a yahoo group, in order to place pictures. Or if the "Let's Talk ShopBot" forum wants to add a file storage place we can upload pictures to. So that everyone has a place to look. I feel and still like getting pictures from everyone. It helps to see how things are put together or how things work. Just a side note.

THANKS!