Material Question

[garyb]

Thanks for the plug Russ

Bill, even though you can add draft in ArtCam it's a lot quicker toolpath and machine time to use a tapered cutter if you can get away with it, 1, 3, 5 and 7 degrees are your standards for 1/8 ballnose, 3, 5 and 7 for 1/4" ballnose.

[phd1658]

Thanks again, all. Chuck, this guy is a jobber. definitely old school. The work he has produced is absolutely beautiful and definitely high end. I will buy the Ammen book. Besides, it is too late, I am already sucked in! Except for a four year stretch in the Army, I have been involved in some form of manufacture all my life and have always been fascinated with its various forms. Besides, it has occurred to me that should I sell production pieces, it would sure save time to do some cold casting with the metalized paint versus carving everything every time.

Gary, or anybody, if you have artcam and use a tapered ball nose, how do you "define" it in Artcam? Do you just tell it the diameter at the nose and not enter anything about the angle or do you try and define it as if it were a V bit?

Thanks again,

Bill

[garyb]

Bill, to set up a tapered ball nose in ArtCam you can create a new tool and select the radius engraving from the tool type drop down.

Myself, if I want a small draft angle and am relying on the cutter to get it then I will tell the software I'm using a straight ballnose but use the tapered and machine to my selected vectors.

[bryson]

Sorry I missed this one. I second everything that Chuck has said. I operate my own cast aluminum foundry which is why I purchased my bot. I can add one more thing to the material list. I have also used Corian for my casting patterns. It cuts easily and doesn't need any sealing. I have just started a project for number plaques that incorporates using street names that I can change quite easily. The street names and numbers are held in with bees wax.
Bryson

[phd1658]

Wow, nice work, Bryson! Thanks for the tip on the Corian. I just got some in to play with lithopanes, but it is too thin. I'll have to try some. I'm guessing I could find/buy a suitable piece of Corian (closer to the actual size I need) than buying a whole sheet of double refined MDF. I'm wondering if I can't find anything thick enough..........can you glue Corian up to achieve the needed thickness? If so, what kind of glue would you use? Gary, thanks for the tip on the tool definition.

[bryson]

Bill, I use west System for gluing Corian. I assume that any epoxy would work but I'm a creature of habit and I've been using it for everything since it was called Gougeons!
Bryson

[navigator7]

I operate my own cast aluminum foundry which is why I purchased my bot.
Bryson

Great website, Bryson!
I gotta ask.....
How do you configure your molds when pouring aluminum plaques?
Do you tip the flask?
Do you pour into individual flasks or do you stack flasks and do a multiple mold pour?
What do you find is your minimum thickness for pouring 12" plaques?
Where do you put your riser?
I've got a fire hall logo to pour. They want it in bronze but have a n/a beer budget.
They want a finished look that is very thin...but I want a thicker pattern.
I think it'll produce a misrun or cold shut.

You can respond privately if this post is off the topic?

Tks

Nav7

[bryson]

Chuck, There is a lot of " it depends" there. I've cast as thin as 1/16 in that size range with no problem. You'll need your pour as hot as possible and your sand as dry as possible. I have tipped but I usually gate from both ends and a few vents to keep things moving. I would put the riser opposite the sprue. I added pictures of a 30" X 1 /4" oval that I did. The picture shows the 2 sided imprint in the cope and drag. (This is a home made hinged flask) and gated from one side with a few 1/8" vents.
Bryson

[phd1658]

Bryson, I'll second Chuck's comment on your website, very nice. I'm still working on mine, but it isn't on par. Who did yours? Also, on your corian pieces it appears you put some sort of epoxy in for filler and then sanded? Just curious as to what type epoxy (if that's the case) you're using.

[bryson]

Bill, What you are seeing is melted bees wax. Where you see the street name is pocketed out and I can change them by heating the wax. The numbers just sit on the pattern and they are attached with wax also. The web site was built with Joomla and a lot of tutoring! Check out Weebly, I've been playing with that and it's super easy.
Bryson