Hi All,
I'm a little shy of using the Z Zero plate up to now. I have the SW set at the correct plate thickness (0.125" in my case) but early results (when I was even less experienced than my current inexperienced state!) were less than encouraging. Now I'm up to using shiny and expensive 60 degree V bits, I just don't want to risk breaking the tip off such a piece of gold. Without some easy to use and accurate zeroing system, accurately zeroing Z, especially with the stock dust foot fitted, is a real chore. Also, when using a flat area clearance tool, the need for accuracy on the vee bit zero is magnified, hence the need for a better method.
What to others do? Does the Z really stop instantaneously, as soon as it makes contact? Any comments would be greatfully received.
The only thing I have though of to date is to use a slow Z speed when zeroing to cut down on Z axis inertia and momentum but whilst I'm brave, I'm not that brave!
"There are old Pilots and bold Pilots, but there are few old, bold Pilots'
Regards
Steve