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Thread: Need some help for a project design

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    Habitat For Bats, Jackson GA
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    2,113

    Default Need some help for a project design

    This is so simple it's complicated, I almost overlooked coming to the board and asking for ideas... but the more I think about it I would love to see how others would approach this.

    The end product is a 20" x 20" x 3/4" piece of plywood (or MDF) that breaks into 2 pieces 10x20 each. When assembled it needs to be solid. When in 2 pieces it needs to be benign (i.e. no sharp edges) The final use is a table top for a portable display unit. It will be removed, stowed and then used again at shows.

    My first thought was to use a piano hinge so they fold open, then add a small lip under them like a table apron. This is not the best solution because they fold into one piece.

    My other thought was to do opposing rabbits so they would lap onto each other. Then place a small fastener of somekind on the bottom. That leaves a little too much flex.

    Ideas welcomed!

    Robert

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Marquette, MI
    Posts
    3,388

    Default

    Robert.. \
    Take a look at the spring loaded table flap hinge. The kind that lets a 3 or 4 ft. square table open into a 4 or 5' round. The locks are spring loaded, they are rigid, will fold back on themselves, no fasteners required. (other than the mounting screws) I get them from Hardware Imagination (MIA).
    Gary

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Harbor Wood & Clay, GIG HARBOR WA
    Posts
    160

    Default

    I would take a low-tech approach and use a dowel jig to drill dowel holes and glue dowel pins in one of the pieces.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2000
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    Atlanta GA
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    Default

    If you need a more solid connection you might try these

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    Thorp, WI
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    Default

    Exactly what I was going to mention (Davids post).

    Along with that, to make it level without having to play with it each time you put it together, put some biscuit slots in both edges and only glue the biscuits into one edge.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    iBILD Solutions - Southern NJ
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    7,986

    Default

    Nice link, David. How deep do you need to go with your pocket for the bolt to be fully submerged? (what's the Z height of the bolt?)

    Thanks!
    -B

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2000
    Location
    Atlanta GA
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    Default

    Not sure Brady, of course the web site tells you every dimension except the one you need. I've only used them once or twice and don't have any on hand but I know they are designed for 3/4" material so I think 1/2" deep is probably OK, you might get by with a little less.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Ellettsville, IN
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    346

    Default

    Lamello duplex hinges might work if they are strong enough. Detachable, one could cut the recesses with the bot or biscuit joiner. A little pricey though. I think Lamello's simplex connectors aren't the right animal though.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    Habitat For Bats, Jackson GA
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    Default

    PERFECT! I knew it was a good idea to post here... I can even use those flip bolts for a different project I've been working on.
    THANKS!

    I think, in this case I will cut the tops out whole with the pockets cut for the flip bolts and allow a little for the 1/8" kerf of my table saw blade. Then cut them in half with the table saw after I add the edge banding.

    Robert

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Delray Beach, FL
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    Default

    Brady: We use these daily in our shop. The pocket is approx 1/2" deep. Our supplier sells them to us for less than $1 each. Our typical method for countertops larger than 8-10 ft is using a combination of these and biscuits for alignment. We do not count on this type of joint to support load without bracing underneath.

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