Last Poll, I Promise

[Gary Campbell]

I SCREWED THIS UP AND DIDNT ALLOW MULTIPLE VOTES!

My previous poll for SB Link Users Tooling shows that 60% zero to the top of material at some point during a job run. Another, even tho with many less votes, show that 55% use a single tool to cut their Link files. I get a good amount of feedback from users on this, and it seems some improvement could be used in this area.

So, assuming I could push the easy button and make this better for you, what would you want changed?

Please Vote TWICE in the poll. Once for the bit change, once for the zero options.

Enter your comments as a post below or email me and I will post anonymously

[loriny]

I wouldn't mind a bit change to eliminate deflection/increase cut speed if I wasn't so lazy about changing bits and if I ran a spindle. I really like to zero to the bed as I am now assembling all cabinets with blind dadoes and titebond HiPur hot melt glue as my dadoes are fitting so well. Probably save a good 1/2 hr per box over pocket holing and screwing.
Lorin

[bill_lumley]

Lorin , your note about HotPur for assembly caught my eye . I struggle with pains in my arms from all the time I spend with a driver in my hand putting cabinets together and would love a method that eliminates this torque on my arm . I screw mostly and pocket hole home some joints(hidden fastener) now . Are you assembling all joints for a cabinet with HotPur and do you use the 60 or 30 time ?

Thanks Bill
Sorry to take it off topic Gary I am intrigued about what you may be coming up with next

[loriny]

Bill
So far I have been using the 75 second. I have a second set of hands for assembly. I have a case of 5 minute on order so it isn't so frantic to ensure parts line up and so I would have a better chance of assembling alone. I use it for all parts except the back. This is a dadoed 5/8 panel slid in from the top and wood glued.
Lorin

[dlcw]

I currently use multiple bits and zero to a permanent z-zero block mounted to the side of the table. Before this, bit changing was a royal PITA!

Now, once I complete the bit change, I hit enter, the spindle and drill are automatically zeroed on the permanent block and cutting begins. The only intervention is me physically changing the bit. After that Wall-e goes back to work and so do I.

With always zeroing to the spoil board cuts are much more accurate - especially mortise and tenon joinery with SBLink. I use this setup with both SBLink and Aspire files.