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Thread: Puck lights

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    Cabinetry Green, LLC, Fishers IN
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    214

    Default Puck lights

    Is there an advantage to using low-voltage vs. 120v puck lights? The only advantage I can think of is heat. I believe they are restricted by the number of lights which can be connected to one transformer...?

    I have a project which has two sections; one with 6 lights and another with 8 lights. Both sections would require rather long leads; 6ft plus. I am looking for a good brand of puck lights that have a 6ft or longer cords and can be wired together. Or ones that can be lengthened safely and connected together to a wall switch. Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2000
    Location
    Atlanta GA
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    1,499

    Default

    Don't tell anyone but on occasion I will splice some lamp cord into the puck light's lead to make it as long as I need it. I use approved crimp connectors sized for the wire involved, and I usually cover the splice with heat-shrink tubing to make it nice looking and durable. I have also connected a group of puck lights to a single lead with wire nuts and run the single lead to the transformer.

    I did a job once where the electrician ran a long lead to some puck lights on the other side of the room, and they were noticeably dimmer than the ones closer to the transformer. So be careful about using very different lead lengths in the same application. Better to run an extension cord to the transformer (even better is to have power run to where you need it) and keep the lead lengths short.

    I get my pucks from Hafele.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Delray Beach, FL
    Posts
    3,708

    Default

    Yes you do need the correct sized transformer. 4 15 watt lights require a minimum 60 watt transformer, etc. The type of connection that David used (Crimp fittings and shrink wrap) is not appropriate for high voltage lines but low voltage connections have much lighter legal requirements then the standard j-box and wire nuts required for 110 power. That can make extending your runs somewhat easier. An extra few feet beyond 6 or so would not create an issue in brightness. Longer runs like those typical in outdoor yard lighting need some pretty heavy guage wire (8) to maintain power. The same principle holds true in high voltage. Voltage loss is constant over distance and a good electrician can quote the numbers.
    Lately I have been buying mine from Outwater plastics in New Jersey (www.outwaterplastics.com). They have a heck of a variety of lighting and in puck lights they have kits as well as customizeable parts with several transformers available. You have your choice in fixture material (plastic or metal), wattage, fixture colors, and surface or flush mounting options. For such things as undercounter if you plan on using a standard wall switch you can use Lutron dimmers for low or high voltage. Their customer service agents will get a lighting specialist involved in a heartbeat if your questions are beyond their knowledge, but since I buy all kinds of things from Outwater on a regular basis I am constantly amazed at what their agents know about the large variety they carry.
    The above comments on Outwater are not to be taken as a slam on Hafele. I also buy from them very regularly.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Cabinetry Green, LLC, Fishers IN
    Posts
    214

    Default

    Thank you for the feed back. I will check out outwater.

    So is low-votage the better choice only if extending the power cord? Its the number of transformers needed which is bugging me. Not so much the extra money but hinding the transformer within the cabinetry. Do you guys ever use 120v?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Delray Beach, FL
    Posts
    3,708

    Default

    I like low voltage when possible for the lower power usage and easy wiring as well. For kitchen under cab lights it can go above the cabinets or in a corner or end filler often as well as between the bottom of the cabinet and a dropped panel behind the valance which then hides all the wires. I will then flush mount the lights in the panel.
    For entertainment centers there is usually a base cabinet where the transformer can go even if it is a floor to ceiling built in. The variety in style tends to be higher with low voltage.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    mcgrew woodwork, columbia south carolina
    Posts
    909

    Default

    120v puck light from home depot, installed a many, bulb last longer, over 5 years with using them no complaints

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    , Richmond Tx
    Posts
    1,091

    Default

    I have those same 110 volt puck lights in my home. I built my kitchen about 10 years ago.

    They get to hot for my taste and I don't recommend them to my customers. I would not use them again.

    The wood is a little discolored around them from the heat.
    Kenneth

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Bedford Hills NY 10507
    Posts
    1,061

    Default

    I have been using 120v xenon puck lights form Outwater Hardware (not Plastics) also in NJ They are easy to install with no transformer.I get you the brand name in the morning.
    http://www.WoodworkingByErminio.com

    Custom Cabinetry, Furniture ,CNC Services
    Email:Wberminio@msn.com
    914-666-8746 Shop/Office

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    300

    Default

    you should all try the new led. less power, no heat, last longer and you can get then in low or medium voltage. draw back they cost a little more.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    , rochester ny
    Posts
    311

    Default

    I would also recommend the LED's. After using them in a commercial job for wine displays and back illuminating a bar top. Also used them in a large commercial display cabinet that needed to display vintage printed ad materials. LED's emit no UV's or heat draw little current and last a lot longer than halogen bulbs.
    In the case of the wine racks and vintage ad materials it was the lack of U.V. and heat. In the case of the back illuminated bar top, it was the service life of the diodes before replacement would be required.
    I used to install halogen pucks in my kitchens. I don't any longer. I worry about the heat and risk of fire. Someone not realizing that a roll of paper towels was set right under that puck light, etc... Something to consider anyhow.

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