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Thread: Whimsical Furniture

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
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    Harbour Grace Newfoundland
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    771

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    Jack, You are making this too complicated for yourself. The front and back have to be a mirror. Because you want to put dado on the backside not the front. If you notice on mine, the top and bottom shelves are the key to holding it together. All you have to do, is trace the inside 3/4 using part works and the deeper the better for your dado. As for mortice tendon, you will end having a lip. The bend, after you get your bottom and bottom assembled can be done with 1/2 MDF. It would probably be better to use 3/8. If you are worried about trying to clamp this thing, just try to sneak in some brads. If the bend is too strong, you can always use ratchet tie downs if the brads start popping out. I think it is probably better to make this out MDF except for the top, bottom and shelves. You definetely want to screw in the top and bottom because they will be your anchor and make sure you use plywood. The reason for MDF, I think it looks better with a large round over; I would make this unit 7' tall. Sure Jack you can make it more complicated but sometimes we over engineer for nothing. You can put one of these together in a day. I want to put one in the showroom. The Bot really shines on one of these projects. Without the Bot, a project like this would be huge. Remember KISS keep it simple stupid. I follow that philosophy because if you look at my stuff I have a very simple formula. For Dave, nice photo I wish I had more adventurous clients to try stuff like that. I'm in danger of my stuff looking all the same. Kevin

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Cabinets Plus of Augusta, Hephzibah Ga 30815
    Posts
    1,504

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    I dont know what the fuss is all about, most everything i build looks like that.LOL its the straight stuff that gives me a fit.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    7,832

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    I can see Gene Rhodes standing there scratching his head as he looks at the finished project -"Sir, it started out straight, I don't know what happened?"

    Kevin- I sometimes do overthink or overdo some things but come here and ask advice and refine it to keep from making mistakes by talking to the "experts"
    As for mortice tendon, you will end having a lip. The bend, after you get your bottom and bottom assembled can be done with 1/2 MDF

    I have gone back and forth on this, I think the front and back would be best cut from MDF but really didn't want to kerf the MDF because it makes such a mess in my shop even with the dust collection running.
    Do you think it would look ok to have front/back of MDF and sides plywood or all of it one or the other?

    I can see the advantage of the clean edge for front and back with MDF and ragged edges with plywood.

    As far as a lip due to the mortise, I don't have a problem with that. At this time I only have 4 Bessy clamps that would be big enough and if i made it a rebate i would need lots more clamps.

    When i first drew this up I made 2 seperate pieces then I found myself trying to match vectors, ect THEN the light went on.

    I deleted the second part, copied the front and deleted the center cutout and had a mirror copy of the first piece.
    It was funny because I heard this voice in my head that said:
    "Jack, You are making this too complicated for yourself"...must have been Kevin!

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Harbour Grace Newfoundland
    Posts
    771

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    Jack
    Play with it sounds like less confusion
    I.am shure the second time you.ll refine and improve and baybe even write a book

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Delray Beach, FL
    Posts
    3,708

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    Jack:

    You now have about 5 times more information than most of us had the first time we did something like this. The next post from you on this thread should be a picture of your finished project.

    Just do it!

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    FSR Custom WoodWorks, San Jose CA
    Posts
    32

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    Look up krefkore.com. It is an mdf type product that bends easily and finishes like regular mdf. I have used bendy board and it is way too much work to get a smooth surface.
    I bend 3/8 kerfkore to the shape I want and glue another 3/8 sheet back to back for a 3/4 piece or just a sheet of veneer on the back for a 3/8 light weight glue up.
    Best part, my customers love the look and finish of the stuff.
    Doug

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    nelson woodcrafters, palmyra wisconsin
    Posts
    129

    Default whimsy

    there was an article in fine woodworking this month that my also help (feb 2011

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    7,832

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    is that something i can look up online or go find the magazine? We have a barnes and noble here in town.

    edit...I found it thanks
    Last edited by myxpykalix; 01-05-2011 at 02:50 PM.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    7,832

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    doug,
    I called a distrib. for prices on kerfkore here is what i got:

    The Kerfkore prices are as follows:

    8’ x 4’ bends the short way to make a 4’ tall barrel shape

    ¾” thick = $184.00 / sheet

    ½” thick = $175.50 / sheet

    Please allow a skid charge of $30.00 and a freight charge of $ 130.00

    The lead time is 2 weeks approx.

    over $500 for 2 sheets ARE THEY NUTS?

    Since i have not seen any of this stuff, if anyone knows please tell me what difference there would be between their product and me taking a regular piece of mdf and kerfing it myself?
    Am I the only one who thinks thats crazy?

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Harbour Grace Newfoundland
    Posts
    771

    Default

    Make your own kerfs on the cnc

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