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Thread: No reset

  1. #11
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    The big black things in the top of the control box.

    The low voltage in the bottom control board turns them on. When they kick in that is the clunk you hear.

    If one of them is weak and not clunking in you would have your issue.

    If a e-stop is not making good contact, it would not let the board send voltage to the contactor and that would also cause the same condition.
    Kenneth

  2. #12
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    Contactor circled in red in the pic
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Kenneth

  3. #13
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    May 2010
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    Qualicum Beach, B.C.
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    Thanks Kenneth I'll wander back to the shop and poke around a bit more.

  4. #14
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    Nope, still no luck.
    As far as I can tell all contacts are good and tight.
    Just a thought; how would insufficient line voltage manifest itself?
    Would I be getting the symptoms that I am?
    Just how much voltage is required to get the reset solenoids to activate?

  5. #15
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    Try hitting the side of the aluminum box with a rubber hammer while you are pushing the blue button to see if it clunks in.

    I had a contactor going bad for my spindle and one of them would click in, but not both of them. I would bump the aluminum box and it would fire up. Mine had two contactors for power to the drivers, and another set for spindle power.

    If that doesn't do it, I would hot wire the e-stops temporarily to make sure that is not the cause.

    I was thinking low voltage to the bot would maybe cause it, but if you had an electrician wire it up, I'm sure he checked that.
    Kenneth

  6. #16
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    A hammer?I used to have an old Camaro that occasionaly needed impact persuasion on the starter solenoid.
    My electrician didn't check the voltage at the control box end.
    Seeing as this machine was just being relocated the existing wiring to the box was left in place for the move.
    I did tap the contactors while trying to reset (the control box door was open) but that had no effect.
    The strange thing is that I did have everything running, albeit for a short time, and now nada.

  7. #17
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    I would go after the e stop next.

    Do you have a continuity tester that beeps when the probes touch?
    Kenneth

  8. #18
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    No Kenneth I don't have the continuity tester you describe.
    Although the emergency stop button was never pressed during testing and it's never given me issues in the past.
    I did open it up and all the connections are secure.
    At present I've pulled the Z-zero and table stop connections from the board.
    When I power up and hit the blue reset I get a slight click from the box but not the louder clunk from the connectors resetting.
    Gonna' call SB and see what they suggest.

  9. #19
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    The estop is the most common thing to cause what you have going on.

    Here is a diagram on how to bypass it for a test. You need two short wires. Place them to connect the pins on the board like the picture shows. The blue connector is off to show what needs to be connected easier. Leave the connector on and place the jumper wires to hook up those pins.

    What the e stop does is keep those two pairs of terminals connected. It breaks either or both connections when the button is pushed.

    Just because the wires are tight in the box does not mean the switch or the wiring is ok.

    This will eliminate the estop and you can go from there if it doesn't work.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Kenneth

  10. #20
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    Kenneth, thanks again; jumping the connectors to the e-stop is exactly what Frank at SB suggested.
    I tried it, and still no reset.
    I did find one thing this morning; the 10/3 cable that runs from the control box to the VSD that drives the Colombo appears to have some degradation in a couple of spots.
    Would an internal break in that cable result in the symptoms I'm getting?
    I'm off to Home Depot to get cable to replace that one for safety reasons alone. - Boyd

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