I've done a fair bit of inlay work in Solid Surface material and use to use the solid surface adhesive like you guys have been doing. I fianlly got tired of filling the air bubbles and resanding and filling the air bubbles and resanding and filling... you get the idea. Some guys are successful with running a flame quickly over the adhesive to pull the bubbles out. I tried that once and after I put the fire out I decided not to do that anymore.
I switched over to fibreglass resin and haven't looked back. As a matter of fact I've sworn off using the solid surface adhesive for inlays altogether. It's too expensive and way too problematic. The fibreglass resin is tons cheaper too. You can use waxed or unwaxed.
What I do is v-carve out my design then clean it really well with rubbing alcohol or methyl hydrate. Then I'll use hot melt glue to make a little dam all the way around the design. I mix up my resin and hardener and add whatever colour I want (instead of using the limited colour selection I have in solid surface adhesive). Then I put the mixture in a little vacuum chamber I made to help reduce the air bubbles. It only pulls about 20" so it doesn't get them all out but it helps. Finally I pour the mixture into my v-carve right up to the top of the hot melt glue.
The reason for the glue dam is to allow you to fill the v-carve up past the surface of the base material to give the remaining air bubbles somewhere to go. If you don't go crazy with the hardener it'll set up nice and slow and the bubbles will rise up to the top. When it has set I'll squirt some rubbing alcohol on the hot melt to soften it and peel it off then use the Bot to plane the overpour as close to the surface as I can without cutting in to it.
After that I do my sanding and admire my bubble free pour in the colour of my choice.
Did I mention how cheap this method is? A 1 quart jug of resin will go a long way too.
Scott