sealing the letters prevents bleeding, but obviously i am doing something wrong.
sealing the letters prevents bleeding, but obviously i am doing something wrong.
Instead of brushing, I would suggest spraying your final coat(s) on. Stencil ink does tend to load sandpaper. You could use a much more aggressive grit to knock down the heaviest of it and then follow with finer grits. I've used fast dry flat spray paints as well, but you'd want to test for compatibility with your finish so that it doesn't wrinkle/lift it. I've also had good luck with a product called Laser Dark. It sands off easily once dry and can be top coated with lacquer without wrinkling/lifting. It's a bit pricey though. I get a break on it due to the fact that I make products for the company that developed it.
http://www.laserdark.com/
I believe JDS carries it also and might have a better price.
http://php.jdsindustries.com/JDS_SIT...ies&SITE=SITE3
Scott
Thank Scott. Spray guns and i had a parting of the ways sometime back. I am terrible with them. Is laser dark compatible with the elements. We get a lot of uvs in Colorado.
That I don't know. There's nothing stated on the can pertaining to that. My usage is only for interior or protected exterior areas. Yeah, had to brush apply some Watco Danish Oil on some walnut with stencil inked lettering and had to be careful to not over work it to limit bleeding/smearing of it. I topcoat it with spray lacquer just fine though.
Scott
is there such a thing of sikkens in a rattle can?
I found this which highlights some advantages over spray paint: http://msscllc.com/download/spray-stencil-inks/
I believe it is dye based and not pigment based like paint, so I assume it will build up less.
www.cosmos-industrial.com - Pen Marking Tools - Drag Knife
thanks. I was told yesterday that sikkens is solvent based which explains the smearing.
www.cosmos-industrial.com - Pen Marking Tools - Drag Knife
I already have to repair the sign i posted above. The sikkens is holding up great but the ink is flaking off in the graphics big time. The elements here are hard but the sign does not face the south and has not been up that long. My thoughts are to brush the graphics with a wire brush peeling off any loose ink, then redo the ink. But this time seal the ink with an exterior poly and sand again and add another coat of sikkens. Anyhow your thoughts?
I got some stencil ink from McMaster. It did not go well. I couldn't get it to spray on with any consistency, so I gave up. Maybe I didn't get the right brand.
www.cosmos-industrial.com - Pen Marking Tools - Drag Knife