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Thread: Uneven table

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Delray Beach, FL
    Posts
    3,708

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    Yellow glue works just fine. Not sure I would want to use polyurethane due to the way it foams up and expands as it cures.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Cromer, Sydney NSW
    Posts
    174

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    I stopped gluing my spoilbaord to the vacuum plenum about 5 years ago and most of my problems disappeared with the glue. Keep your plenum dead flat and when the spoil board get chewed up resurface it then flip it over.

    A flat table is the best thing you can do for your cutting.

    Experiment and work out the best solution for you

    David

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    baton rouge
    Posts
    135

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    Brady , I hate you.

    I have the same problem and I did not glue my plenum down, just redid my spoil board too..

    DAMN.




    Quote Originally Posted by bradywatson View Post
    "Screws are bad news"

    Your spoilboard 'layup' should consist of the following:

    1) A good quality layer of plywood bolted to the steel crossmembers. This is your support board.

    2) A sheet of Medex or MDF GLUED to the support board with wood or Gorilla glue. This is your vacuum plenum layer that you'll machine the zoned grid into.

    3) A sheet of Trupan or Ultralight MDF GLUED to the plenum layer. This is your bleeder/spoilboard.

    If you have screws on any layer, the material WILL buckle & you will be plagued with unreliable flatness in your table until the end of time. The ONLY way to remedy this is to rip it all off & start over. I have seen this problem over & over again...

    -B

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    iBILD Solutions - Southern NJ
    Posts
    7,986

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    Quote Originally Posted by fozzyber View Post
    Brady , I hate you.

    I have the same problem and I did not glue my plenum down, just redid my spoil board too..

    DAMN.
    I too have hated myself in the past for not gluing! Now things stay really flat and consistent. I never need to shave off more than .04" on my spoilboard...I can't say that was always the case. Them early days were ugly.

    There's nothing stopping you from pulling it apart by removing screws, then glue & clamp the whole deal back together again.

    -B
    High Definition 3D Laser Scanning Services - Advanced ShopBot CNC Training and Consultation - Vectric Custom Video Training IBILD.com

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Maniwaki Qc. Canada
    Posts
    12

    Default

    Should the vacuum been on when glueing. Say an hour or two?

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Delray Beach, FL
    Posts
    3,708

    Default

    Absolutely-Or cover it with some good weight like a bunch of cement sacks.
    (That would be "IMHO").

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    baton rouge
    Posts
    135

    Default

    just ripped it off, I cant unscrew it because the screws are in between the bleeder and plenum. damn damn damn.

    OH well, time to do it right this time.

    Brady, I don't really hate you, just want to shoot the messenger



    Quote Originally Posted by bradywatson View Post
    I too have hated myself in the past for not gluing! Now things stay really flat and consistent. I never need to shave off more than .04" on my spoilboard...I can't say that was always the case. Them early days were ugly.

    There's nothing stopping you from pulling it apart by removing screws, then glue & clamp the whole deal back together again.

    -B

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