Sounds like a nice, small Honda generator to keep power to the computers would be a worthwhile investment here. Even the 3000uI models have engines you can barely hear at 5'...
Sounds like a nice, small Honda generator to keep power to the computers would be a worthwhile investment here. Even the 3000uI models have engines you can barely hear at 5'...
During long cuts in the summer afternoon thunderstorm season I start each sheet by plunging a reference cut at 0.0. location or any other place on the sheet that is not in the way. That way if I loose position or power I can go back to 0.0. to lines back up. This has saved me more than once with erratic electric. I've been able to get from almost perfect to perfect. Depending on what I'm cuttin. Simple enough?
An excellent idea I need to get myself more into the habit of doing!
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I'm pleased to report that Brady's simple Option A was the overnight solution!
Returned to work today after turning off the monitor last evening
to find things intact.
No charred embers, no smoke, no fire damage
Thanks for your help and all the suggestions!
.
________________________________________
You don't have to be half-crazy to do CNC
but it sure helps...
Glad it worked out.
Where are the pics???
-B
High Definition 3D Laser Scanning Services - Advanced ShopBot CNC Training and Consultation - Vectric Custom Video Training IBILD.com
You'll find a new album called Holey Door at
http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/album.php?albumid=55
with a modicum of explanation via captioning.
And there info about Iroko at Wikipedia here..
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iroko_%28hardwood%29
.
________________________________________
You don't have to be half-crazy to do CNC
but it sure helps...
One nice thing about being in the islands is you guys have access to all that beautiful African wood we can't get anymore...
-B
High Definition 3D Laser Scanning Services - Advanced ShopBot CNC Training and Consultation - Vectric Custom Video Training IBILD.com
Some years ago one of our local wood suppliers had "White Mahogany"
-a Peruvian hardwood, probably not a true Mahogany at all.
We were getting thru a lot of that stuff for awhile there..
We did lotsa White Mahogany panelling for a large room in a millionaire's mansion
the artists came in and painted flowering vines and birds and butterflies
-and then the beetles broke out!
Seems they lay their eggs in/on the trees, and they stay there in the wood for years, before busting out when the time is right.
Mr.Millionaire was not pleased and all that lovely panelling had to be torn out!
Not sure what it was replaced with, but I doubt he went with White Mahogany again!
I cut some Poplar the other day
(no big deal to you guys but unusual to us down here). It cut like butter.
Purpleheart we get too (ex South America, not so far away from us).
We get Ash and Oak too. And Cedar.
Mahogany counts fer nothing down here, we have Mahogany growing wild all over the island.
I have a huge one right outside my back door!
We get Teak from nearby Trinidad, but also from Burma(very expensive,the latter)
Life generally is very different, down here in the tropics!
.
________________________________________
You don't have to be half-crazy to do CNC
but it sure helps...
If any of you guys are on Facebook
and if you care to see what we do at Island Furniture..
please visit our Facebook page at
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Islan...218566?sk=wall
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Last edited by dhunt; 02-17-2012 at 10:55 AM.
________________________________________
You don't have to be half-crazy to do CNC
but it sure helps...
like þ
Steve
David, I do enormous 3d files that take 20+ hours to run.
This is what I do. It seems to be a mix of what Brady and Bruce have offered up.
I always z-zero in a predetermined spot on the work which changes per piece. The other thing i do is I find a place on the work to make a shallow vertical cut with my 1/2 inch 4 flute. Then i have put a piece of masking tape on the router with the zzero and the x,y zero. This allows me to reset after a [pause] or a fail. I get the line number if possible and record it. Whenever I am ready to cut again I keyboard the cutter to max z then send the cutter to the pre-defined x,y zero location. Then I turn off the SB software and the control box. In that order. I lower the cutter into the shallow cut slowly by hand. I leave it in the hole, turn the control box back on then start the SB program. I move z above the work put my proper bit in zero at the predetermined location per my masking tape . zero and then basically use Brady's option two and continue. The good news is that if you couldn't get the line number you can start the file all over again. I know it sucks but at board foot costs a few hours of air cuts are better than accepting the $$$ loss for the wood.