OK wow, a bunch of things to respond to.
As far as the framework goes, this is one of the biggest advantages of Gearotic IMHO. When using the output module you can save a dxf of the framework calculated by the prog. Gives you all the center points of all the gears in your system. I have just then modifed this in Rhino/PW to create a housing for my gears. I generaly just mark my drill points with a Vbit and then drill to the dia. of my shafts with an accurate bit on the press.
...and yes, shoulder bolts (right on Mark, didn't think to mention) are perfect for this. I am now cutting my framework in sheet aluminum and then drilling/tapping holes for the bolts. (near perfect gear meshing for my tolerences)
@Jack:
In gearotic there is a program settings icon on the top bar to the right (a little green sphere with a chain link) Heres where you can toggle metric or SAE for your projects. The interface is not really intuitive but I have been able to get what I need via changing the D pitch and wheel teeth # to get the gear I want. Just watch the relationships to get a sense of how they interact. The actual mechanical theory is more complicated but for this purpose it has been sufficient. Getting meshing gears is a breeze as they are calculated by the prog. Nice feature is that in the spur gear panel, it gives you the minimum bit dia. to cut the involute "flat on the table".
@Dana:
As I posted earlier, the motor I have does have an info plate, but unfortunately with little helpful information. (no hits on product #) It does however say 120v 60Hz so it is clearly an AC motor. As it is from a breadmaker I will guess it has 2 speeds with different voltage ( prob. mixing and dough kneading as Edward suggested) Ill go ahead an hook it up to a 12v supply as you suggested to test. I'll report back.
@Brady:
As for safety, I am a contractor by training, not an engineer, so mains power is something I am both comfortable with and respectful of. My electronic geek friends get really annoyed by me as I still tend to "lock-out/tag-out" even for LV situations. Trust me, I am well away when power is applied (5' away with a covered switch wired w/ romex into a handy box screwed to my work table, motor housing held in a ramussen clamp). I might fry something, but no threat to life and limb.
Also these motors are damn near free. ( I paid all of $1.75 for the motor in question) A good learning situation for me, and if I get it to work? bonus.
@Mark:
one of the other scores was a george foreman JR rotisserie. I pulled the motor/gearbox... and wow. 120v, 2 lead, AC with a 12mm "D" shaft. Incredibly quiet, approx. 3RPM, and I cannot stall it with my fingers. No idea how it compares in torque to the aftermarket rotisserie motors, but it seems perfect for my purposes. The price was right ;-) and I am keeping an eye out for similar items on craigslist, freecycle, etc...
Side note: I also pulled apart a paper shredder and electric can opener from a yard sale. Nice torque and easy wiring, but damn... the noise. Give em a pass for kinetic sculpture.
Anyway,
Thanks for all the feedback.
This is a great forum.
Chris
Last edited by shoeshine; 02-27-2012 at 04:18 AM.
Do not follow where the path may lead. Go instead where there is no path and leave a trail.