The link will walk you through the each tool change, and give you an opportunity to zero the bit if necessary.
I zero to the bed of the machine (aka the spoil board). Once you start doing it this way you will never want to zero to the top of the material again. When zeroing to the bed you do not need to worry about minor variations in thickness within the material, small differences from one sheet to another.
For an off table reference I use a small vacuum puck to hold my z-zero plate nice and tight. My Z-Zero routine is setup to automatically go to this location. (roughly x=2 - y=-1.25)
a
I made this the same size as my Z-Zero plate. I put a piece of trupan on top to act as a mini bleeder board board. I modified my table surfacing routine to surface this puck so that it is the exact same height as my table. When using a 1-1.25" bit I have to cheat a little and flush up the last 1/8" on the righthand side with a chisel (easier done than said)
I hooked it up to the plumbing for my table with polyurethane tubing from the hardware store. I was going to install a knife valve but The vacuum leakage doesn't even show up on my gauge . I am only using a pair of lighthouse 110v motors any i do not notice any loss from this.
ZZERO PUCK 1 .jpgZZEROPUCK2.jpg