I have no affiliation with these guys but I am on their email list. This looks like a handy tool to mount on the end of the SB table for dovetails or any machining on the edge of a board.
Mike
http://www.woodpeck.com/knuckleclamp.html
I have no affiliation with these guys but I am on their email list. This looks like a handy tool to mount on the end of the SB table for dovetails or any machining on the edge of a board.
Mike
http://www.woodpeck.com/knuckleclamp.html
WWW.MillerMarineProducts.com
Proto Trak DPM CNC Bed Mill
Brand X Industrial router
Sharp SVL-2416SE-M VMC
I've been thinking about a mounting system for some edge work like boxjoints and dovetails but this seems a bit pricey to me.
WWW.MillerMarineProducts.com
Proto Trak DPM CNC Bed Mill
Brand X Industrial router
Sharp SVL-2416SE-M VMC
i was looking at the double setup which you would need to make something to hold a good size piece and that amounted to like 75 bucks i think. This was just my first impression heck i could be wrong.
You could probably rig up something from rockler maybe cheaper?
Mt first thought was how would you be able to mount something and know it was level or both parts even? It's worth trying to make something.
Nice find and especially your suggestion for use Mike.
Thank you kindly,
Gerry
WWW.MillerMarineProducts.com
Proto Trak DPM CNC Bed Mill
Brand X Industrial router
Sharp SVL-2416SE-M VMC
that was my first thought re: leveling but then i was thinking ok run the bit to one end then you have to run it to the other side making sure if you have to loosen your clamps not to mess up the first side, ect.
let us know how it works for you maybe it will be fine and i'm concerned about nothing.
In the one picture they show some adjustable stops so if the board you are using is not odd shapped i would use the SB to set the stops.
I make some fillet & rigging tables out of plastic that requires some pilot holes be drilled in the side of some 1/2" material this will be just the ticket. Some of the pieces need to be drilled in the end of a 38" part that makes it tough to do without making a special jig to hand drill.
I have been drilling a lot of these parts on my CNC milling maching but it won't do the ends of the really long ones and has a 30" max X travel.
I could have made something but not for less money I would have had hours in figuring it all out. I would rather pay them and keep making parts that make me $$ in the long run it is cheaper. If I was not running a business and was just doing this for a hobby I would have made something myself as that is part of the fun of hobby work.
Mike
WWW.MillerMarineProducts.com
Proto Trak DPM CNC Bed Mill
Brand X Industrial router
Sharp SVL-2416SE-M VMC
I could have made something but not for less money I would have had hours in figuring it all out.
Michael,
You just hit on the problem i have. Initially i am too cheap to at first pay for something like this thinking i could make something cheaper. But what too often happens is i work on making something that doesn't work out, so i have the time and material cost of my experimentation and in the end just go buy what i need.
However many times i make a cheap alternative and save money, so there you go
I use pneumatic cylinders for clamping, on and off with a flip of the valve.
The basic bimba cylinders are reasonably priced at Grainger or MSC.