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Thread: PRS Standard

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Hamilton NZ
    Posts
    24

    Default

    Hi Steve,

    Thank you for you fast answer.

    I am using a bit made here in NZ , the first on this list from the producer web page.

    http://www.linbide.co.nz/product.php?p=1

    I think I get the picture, I will do few more cuts, and make another similar test with a bit design special for a CNC router ;o)

    The speed what I have used was 1600 with 3 ips and I was going deep 1.5 mm on the table, because is not yet surfaced, just a simple rectangle and measure the diagonals. With this settings I manage to make pretty nice chips on MDF, I think they could or should be a little bit big...but for the first cut I was happy with that ;o)

    I will use this tip with the stops , but I have to set them now, so I can trust them first time ;o)

    Cheers DAN

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Garland Tx
    Posts
    2,334

    Default

    Dan

    If I understand you correctly... your test cuts are being done with an 1/8" bit. This bit is very susceptible to deflection due to cutting load. Next time you cut a test rectangle, cut in climb cut mode allowing about .020" on an inch. Follow this up with a conventional cut full depth on with no allowance. This will result in a clean cut that had a very light load on the bit.

    SG

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Hamilton NZ
    Posts
    24

    Default

    Yes that is correct, I will re-do the test tonight NZ time following your advice.

    What is a result what you will consider okay ? Would you accept any marge of error ?

    Thanks again for your fast answer ;o)

    Cheers DAN

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Garland Tx
    Posts
    2,334

    Default

    Dan

    "What is a result what you will consider okay ? Would you accept any marge of error?

    The more work you put into doing this now, the better results you'll have from now on. If your main business is cabinetry, I would work on it until I can't measure any difference. If however you are doing only 6" X 24" cabin signs or 6" X6" 3D relief carvings... forget the small stuff!

    SG

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Hamilton NZ
    Posts
    24

    Default

    Okay , then i will try to make the diagonals equal.

    Many thanks again for the fast answers, I will be back with the result tomorrow ;o)

    Cheers DAN

  6. #16
    garyc Guest

    Default

    Dan....
    Look in the HELP Menu [H]elp [S]quaring the X car

    More info here: http://www.shopbotblog.com/index.php...he-prs-gantry/

    You should take the time to get it perfect, as there is no reason not to. These machines are capable of a couple thousandths accuracy, why not take advantage of it?

    Learn the fine points of a proper assembly, tuning and maintenance and you can be rewarded by the machine for many years to come.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Hamilton NZ
    Posts
    24

    Default

    Thanks for your advice guys ;o)

    I have followed Steve's advice last night, and the results are GREAT !!!! I still can see a difference, just because I think I am a bit extreme ;o) The difference now between the diagonals are down to 0.5 under 1 mm , which I think is great, that error can be easy introduced by the tape measure.

    Today I plan to finish the table, and surface, once that is done I will do the test what Gary explained on this how-to, I have already read I think 20 times the steps ;o)

    I will let you know what are the results.

    Thanks again for helping me to understand what I should make a standard ;o)

    Cheers Dan

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Hamilton NZ
    Posts
    24

    Default

    Hi guys,

    I will write here with another problem …

    The very beginning now is gone …and obvious for a very nice cut …very important to secure well the material on the table.

    Actually after only 4 weeks ….seems like the most time consuming part is making strategies to secure well the material on the table, screw on the best location and make sure you don’t hit a clamp ( yes , I did it ;o) LOL )

    Obvious the next question now “vacuum system” .
    Lots of stuff on the forum, I would like to ask an opinion from you guys about this.

    http://www.vabs.co.nz/side-channel-b...06-02kw1p.html

    Here are the details
    FPZ SCL K05-MS single stage side channel blower
    1.5kW 230V single phase 50Hz electric motor
    Displacement 219 m3/hr
    Pressure to +17.5 kPa
    Vacuum to -17.5 kPa
    And something what is not for me in this stage,

    http://www.vabs.co.nz/dry-claw-vacuu...x100-22kw.html

    which I am sure is …a…great solution , but the price is about 10 times bigger than the first one ….out of discussion for now ;o)


    To be more specific all what I can have for now is the first one, and I am curious to know if somebody who already done the “vacuum system” can look to the specs and have an opinion about how good can be or not the first pump.

    Thank again for you help.
    Cheers DAN

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2000
    Location
    Toms River, New Jersey
    Posts
    2,091

    Default

    Dan,
    I'm not familiar with those units of measurement, but if the kPa stands for "kilopascals"than my conversion program says that means this pump can only pull 5.16 inches of mercury ( which is how most people will be measuring their vacuum capability for tables such as you are planning). A standard Shopvac type canister vacuum will pull about 4 inches of mercury for comparison.
    "Share your knowledge. It is a way to achieve immortality"...The Dalai Lama

    "Nothing is really work unless you would rather be doing something else....." Sir James Barrie

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Hamilton NZ
    Posts
    24

    Default

    Okay ...

    Basically is not much than a "shopvac" ...only bigger and noisy , I still need about 4 of them to make something decent ...

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