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Thread: Best Radius

  1. #1
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    Default Best Radius

    I know it's subjective, but...

    What is the most aesthetically pleasing radius for small wood signs? Here's some background.

    I want to make square signs in 3 sizes: 7.25", 9.25", and 11.25". I'm going to make them by cutting pine planks of 1" nominal thickness, which I believe is actually 3/4" thick. I'm going to leave the back side alone, but I think they would look much better if I rounded the front edges. The question is, what radius in general do most people find most pleasing? Of course I can always experiment, but I'd much rather go with the voice of experience.

    What radius produces the most "elegant" look? If I had to take a wild guess, I'd say a smaller radius is aesthetically more pleasing than a bigger one.

    Any opinions?

  2. #2
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    Default

    Aloha...

    Subjective is the correct answer... I find a thin V-carved border very pleasing. I'm not sure what it's called but I also like a bead with a reed next to it, it casts a shadow and is very visible.

    SG

  3. #3
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    Default Bead

    Hi Steve,

    Thanks for the input and sorry for the newb questions. When you say V-carved border, you mean a design or pattern within the edges? And is a bead a rounded channel like a little trench (for lack of a better description)?

  4. #4
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    Default

    Alan

    I like to make my borders or perimeters stand out with "shadow" lines... a simple edge radius is not my style but may be what is called for in your projects. This is strictly personal preference! In the first example I created two vectors 1/4" apart and 1/4" in from the edge, I then did a true V-carve between them ( as apposed to carving on one of them with a v-bit at a set depth) to get nice crisp corners. In the second example I routed on two parallel lines with a round over bit that came to a point... this gave me a bead that I then routed inside of with a straight bit.

    Two examples of something I might try to get a shadow line about the perimeter...

    SG
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  5. #5
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    Default Sold Me

    Steve! That's a fabulous look. I'm going to use it. You didn't copyright it did you (just kidding)? Thanks for the visual.

  6. #6
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    Default

    "Imitation is the best form of flattery" And you can bet that I have flattered many others... Keep watching what others do here and ask your self "how can I incorporate that into what I do?"

    SG

  7. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by steve_g View Post
    "Imitation is the best form of flattery" And you can bet that I have flattered many others... Keep watching what others do here and ask your self "how can I incorporate that into what I do?"

    SG
    Well, Steve. count me as another rookie who is' flattering ' you.

    I've attached my first test project that didn't blow up or eat a bit. Was wondering how to go about putting either a V carved chamfer on the perimeter of the piece or a roundover bit.....

    I'm assuming I need NON piloted bits for this . and would I simply follow the outer profile while using the roundover set to a particular depth, (like .325 ish)?

    I am continually impressed how the experienced folks on this forum are so patient with we rookies. thanks for that.

    Karl Hoyt
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  8. #8
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    Karl...
    I hate to admit this but... Sometimes it's easier to take your project over to the router table and spin a chamfer on it. But not always! For a simple edge profile you can follow the edge vector like you suggested, keep in mind that you can use the "Allowance offset" feature of the software (both positive and negative numbers) to fine tune where a profile will be located. If it doesn't look right in the preview, it won't look good in real life!

    Another method that works well for irregularly shaped profiles is to create an offset vector and do a true V-carve between them... This method lets you get into areas smaller than the bit diameter and gives sharp crisp corners... I'll attach an illustration to better explain this.

    As for piloted bits... I can't think of any CNC use for them... I do know a fellow who used his CNC spindle motor in a stationary mode with piloted bits as a spindle shaper... I'm not recommending it, just saying I've seen it done.

    SG
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  9. #9
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    Default

    Thanks for the detailed reply, Steve.

    My other ulterior motive is that we're going to start using the Bot to rout electric guitar bodies. (I teach guitar building at a high school on Cape Cod.)I'm thinking that we'll do the radiusing of the bodies on the Bot with a radius bit and the offset setting rather than trying to do it as a carving program in Aspire (which i have yet to delve into) .

    I'm gluing up some 2x6 test bodies to trash on the machine between now and the fall when we'll be switching from router templates and band saws to the Bot and CAD. It's very exciting

    I'll keep y'all posted:

    take care

    Karl Hoyt

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