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Thread: Black Edgebanding Help

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    Chicago
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    21

    Default Black Edgebanding Help

    I've got this cabinet job using black melamine that I have to apply this iron-on black edgebanding. I am having a hard time with it because after trimming I think the edges look horrible. I normally would hit the edges with some sandpaper to smooth it over but you can't do that with this black stuff. Does anyone have any suggestions or a process that has worked for you?
    Thanks
    John

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
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    Tampa
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    after trimming.

    iron the edge(corner) a little more "roundover"

    THEN: as you iron wipe the glue off.
    Banquet Tables Pro LLC.

  3. #3
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    Dec 2011
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    Piedmont, SD
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    Use a very sharp carbide blade edge trimmer, or a very sharp chisel. If you must, rub back with a 320 paper to soften edge. Then, use a black wax fill stick. Run fill stick along edges and buff with cloth and / or white non abrasive scotch-brite pad. This will take care of any areas you may have chipped in handling.


    jeff

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    2,387

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    We use a black sharpy to hid that kind of edge

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Philadelphia
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    I trim my edge banding with a planer blade then "break" the sharp edge with a very fine file. bigest problem with the iron on stuff is the glue line. i prefer to use contact cement over hot melt when working with dark colors
    "The most valuable tool I have is the experience of others" - Me

  6. #6
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    Timmins, Ontario, Canada
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerry_stanek View Post
    We use a black sharpy to hid that kind of edge
    Yup. I dont do any melemine work these days, but when I did, any black tape, or even HPL showed a lighter band under the face colour... just run a little permanent black marker over it and wipe the excess off with a little mineral spirits & rag.

    AJC

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    Delray Beach, FL
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    Black PVC edgebanding is black clear through. Not like HPL which, unless you buy specific "through color" product, has a lighter color phenolic backing. If you have to use pre glued edgebanding, which is NOT a product defined for professional use in the shop, then you need to apply it correctly. A household iron made for clothes is not the right tool. You should be using a hot air heat source and something that applies a heck of a lot more pressure than than an iron to put it on. You'll get better results with a heat gun (not a hair dryer!!) and a tool that can exert more pressure on the tape, like a veneer blade.

  8. #8
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    Jul 2011
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    Chicago
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    Default Thanks

    Hi Fellas
    Thanks for all the suggestions. Sorry for the late reply, flu bug has set me back a few days. Finally two days of sunshine in Chicago and ready to get back at it.
    FJ

  9. #9
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    Jul 2011
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    Chicago
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    Dave.
    What material would you suggest to use for edgebanding this black melamine?
    Thanks
    John

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    Delray Beach, FL
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    Black PVC. I always prefer non glued as even without an edgebander, sprayed contact cement holds better than built in hot melt. If you must use pre-glued, then resist the impulse to use a household iron, but learn to use a heatgun and pressure tool like a veneer scraper. If doing by hand I will clean up with a blade (sharp chisel or razor) and I just don't have much use for files on edgebanding. Like any other cabinetmaking chore, you'll likely not get it right the first or 10 time, but the nuances you must learn by doing will come to you with practice

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