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Thread: Indexer attachment

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    709

    Default Indexer attachment

    Guys,

    I have gotten the Rikon and an expension kit, the motor and driver from SHopBot ( about $1K for an alpha set up! OUCH!) and have got it set up in the control box (THANKS in large part to Frank! Thank you sir!)

    I need to swap it over to degrees, I think.

    After that, I am ready to start looking at a project.

    What I need from you guys:
    (1) A link to how to set up an indexer file.
    (2) To know what to call this type of device AND how to interface it to a lathe. I am not standing in front of the new Rikon and have not used a lathe before- so I needa small kick start in the right direction. ( I will send an email to Wayne L. He showed us this device at the Camp ShopBot at his place. It replaces a spur- but I just failed to jot down the proper name for it.)

    Thanks,

    M
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    709

    Default

    Wow! Wayne already responded that it is a Legacy Mounting plate. I need to go check with legacy and see if I can set up my lathe with this, and see about a 4 jaw chuck, apparently...


    ...Working in it!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    7,830

    Default

    To change your inches to degrees you need to do a

    VD
    go down to "Units type B Axis" or (Units type A Axis if using A)
    then down down the dropdown menu and hilite "2 Rotary-degrees"
    those little squares are "index hubs" I use them
    http://legacywoodworking.com/products.cfm?product=78

    Why contact Legacy?

    I couldn't find my pics but here is a link to some of them that shows how i use my index hubs. I use a 4 jaw chuck and it basically self centers itself when you insert them into the chuck
    http://www.humblesticks.com/cnc-rotary-tutorial.html
    Last edited by myxpykalix; 04-08-2013 at 05:52 PM.
    Words of Wisdom:
    “Words that sink into your ears are whispered…… not yelled”
    “The biggest trouble maker you’ll probably ever have to deal with, watches you from the mirror every morn’n”
    “The only difference between a rut and a grave is the depth”
    -----------
    Just remember...when it's time for the hearse to pull up..there's no luggage rack on top!
    -----------
    The beauty of the Second Amendment is that it will not be needed until they try to take it...Thomas Jefferson

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    iBILD Solutions - Southern NJ
    Posts
    7,931

    Default

    Monty,
    Check your PM.

    -B
    High Definition 3D Laser Scanning Services - Advanced ShopBot CNC Training and Consultation - Vectric Custom Video Training IBILD.com

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    709

    Default

    Guys;
    I am still struggling with a couple things, but I think I just about have it now. If I can get myself to see hoe to draw out what I want, I will be doing excellent. I need to go back to the vectric site and dig through the tutorials. I saw one online from some guy named mypyxalix or something like that- that looked really helpful! (- (Jack, I may be hitting you up at some point here!)

    Interesting stuff, that is for sure! A brain teaser wrapped up in an equipment buy and a whole lot of new stuff to absorb! I like a challenge!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    iBILD Solutions - Southern NJ
    Posts
    7,931

    Default

    It is very easy. Draw an OPEN vector profile in PartWorks and toolpath it. Type in the TI command and pick the option that lets you turn a profile. You MUST use the SB Inch post processor (no arcs...check code and makes sure there are no CG commands). That should get you going...now get your learn on

    -B
    High Definition 3D Laser Scanning Services - Advanced ShopBot CNC Training and Consultation - Vectric Custom Video Training IBILD.com

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    7,830

    Default

    I saw one online from some guy named mypyxalix or something like that-

    Yeah, i know that guy...he is one of the smartest guys I know, also fairly good looking (for a dude), and a real humble guy....

    Just let me know what you need in the way of help and i'll pass that on to him and i'm sure he'll help you all he can....
    Words of Wisdom:
    “Words that sink into your ears are whispered…… not yelled”
    “The biggest trouble maker you’ll probably ever have to deal with, watches you from the mirror every morn’n”
    “The only difference between a rut and a grave is the depth”
    -----------
    Just remember...when it's time for the hearse to pull up..there's no luggage rack on top!
    -----------
    The beauty of the Second Amendment is that it will not be needed until they try to take it...Thomas Jefferson

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    709

    Default

    OK. Mounted the indexer today. Ran the X over to it a couple times.... got the heebee jeebies working right at the end of the machine! Oh well. I am sure I will get over that!

    I see that I am going to need to machine a fairly accurate 6" block for zeroing.... Rikon people: When you have materials in your lathe/indexer- where do you zero to? Top of your jaw chuck? There isn't really a flat spot to work to, that I can see... your suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    I need to put a pair of stabilizing supports under the front of my set up. It is not solid enough to suit me. (tomorrow. It is late!)

    I have a test peice of lumber that I need to slice down tomorrow and get prepped to go into the indexer. I have two little things I still need to program before I am ready to run a sample.... and then all the gooof ups that I am sure I will do before I get this down--- but am looking forward to trying SOMETHING tomorrow. At least I think I will be able to round some cedar 4 x 4's and then maybe try my shaping file.... then the carving... .

    We'll see. Everything else I have done takes more time and more thought than I figured at the outset of the project. I am sure this will be no different!

    Night all

    MGM

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    7,830

    Default

    A couple things to be aware of before you try your first piece. Look at this pic. The fig on the left is an example of the bit cutting .25 deep. The fig on the right is where when your piece turns a 1/4 turn you'll notice that the bit is now cutting at least .5" deep and you will be taking too big of a bite and probably ruin your piece.

    You need to cut the sharp edges off your material to keep that from happening.
    The other pic is the dimple in the middle of the shaft from the indexer which is where your bit should be Zzeroed to (the center of your material).

    I made a simple jig out of a 2"x6" by measuring where the dimple in the center is and then cutting the board to that height. Now when i want to center to the middle of the material I pull that out, put my plate on it and Zero.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Words of Wisdom:
    “Words that sink into your ears are whispered…… not yelled”
    “The biggest trouble maker you’ll probably ever have to deal with, watches you from the mirror every morn’n”
    “The only difference between a rut and a grave is the depth”
    -----------
    Just remember...when it's time for the hearse to pull up..there's no luggage rack on top!
    -----------
    The beauty of the Second Amendment is that it will not be needed until they try to take it...Thomas Jefferson

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    709

    Default

    Jack. I got that on the zero. That's exactly what I was thinking of to make a separate zero point when there is no material in place. What if I can't get that onto the bed of the machine? What is my stock is blocking that? I haven't run anything and maybe my concern is unwarranted...

    I DO have one concern. And I THINK I now see how to address it... tell me if I am right, please. I have my design. But my design is a full thickness revolution. If I cut to the actual design, I will be cutting my material free of the indexer, right? ( Design goes all the way to the centerline).... Do you just go modify your designs so that they are short by 1/4", and you wind up cutting off a 1/2" thick (if it is milled 1/4" short on both sides of the centerline, it SHOULD leave a 1/2" thick stub, right?) And: Is that enough in a slow turn situation with little material being taken off?)

    And then, to address the difference in thickness from the flat to the corner, I just need to run a rounding program, before runniong the real job, and it should all be OK, right?

    Gotta look over my project and go to the hardware store for my next few bits and pieces. ALmost there!

    (And thank you for your assistance!)

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