Thanks Scott, this design is based off a popular TV series if you didn't know.
I think the sweet walnut grain would make just about anything look great, but it did turn out nearly flawless right off the machine, barely had to do any sanding.
Thanks Scott, this design is based off a popular TV series if you didn't know.
I think the sweet walnut grain would make just about anything look great, but it did turn out nearly flawless right off the machine, barely had to do any sanding.
On the toolpath jumping to another section in the hand-guns:
If you run the 3d preview you can see where this happens and fix it in the code as you would be raising to a higher z level when it makes that move.
Maybe some day, am not qualified to edit code at the moment.
The only way I have found to keep all the lines in sequence is to do the model "standing proud" style, then it starts at the bottom and finishes at the top with no variation ... Not practical to use with plexi, I use it alot in wood including the last posted.
TV? "Whassat?"
On Walnut, How much meat did you leave... and what bit and stepover did you run?
Saw the Purpleheart, still like Walnut best
Any warping?
Nice work!
scott
scott P.
2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 11.5**
Maine
Pretty thin, sure less than .25. I like to go thin cause you get a higher model, and leaving the surrounding edges adds to its rigidity and overall unique look.
Bit was a 1/32 tapered ballnose, stepover 8%. No warpage at all, flat as a board ,,, And I agree, walnut looks the best out of the 4 I have done so far. I'd like to do one in padauak but don't have a suitable chunk at the moment.
Thanks Doug!
scott P.
2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 11.5**
Maine
Finally got around to plexi, this one was done in 3/8 and is about 13x9, turned out pretty nice. I did forget to flip it, sucks.
Not 3D, but plexi. Not sure what to call these, how about "back painted".
Take some plexi and paint it [any color you wish, I use black].
2-3 coats a must to ensure coverage. When dry, etch your design [mirrored, same as any plexi design].
When done, next step for me is to spray the etch with matte clear coat, this to a degree restores lost transparency created by the machining.
With that done and dry, spray the etch with the color of your choice [I usually use white, just tried this yellow and it pops even more].
After this I spray the reverse back to black, purely cosmetic.
You can edge light them [white example is edge lit], but no sense using multi color, just white will do. Paint absorbs most of the light so its just a nice accent for those times where it might be displayed in the dark.
This union logo should be a hot seller on some of my big jobs, guys go gaga for stuff like this. But this method lends itself well to just about anything 2D, lots of options for creativity. I have been thinking about airbrushing a red/white/blue stripe flag design, etching a nice eagle on it and painting it black, that would look pretty slick. [Sorry if pics are upside down/sideways, these phone shots seem to come out that way often]
Designs are 12x12", 3/8 thick and were done with a drag bit. Could just as easily be done on .25 or .5 plexi, I like the extra depth of 3/8 vs .25.