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Thread: First installation - Installing X-car

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    , Sacramento California
    Posts
    31

    Default First installation - Installing X-car

    Hello all. Ive been lurking for a while awaiting by ShoBot. Just got it a few days ago and am in the process of putting the table together. I ran into my first problem, hopefull my last, an didnt want to wait til Monday to call for help. Here is my issue. I got the X-car all set up, with the v-grove bearing lined up with the v-grove channel on the x-rail. When I role the car, one of the bearings on one side stops spinning for several inches, and then starts spinning again. using a very accurate depth gauge, I noticed that the area whre the bearing stops spinning has a slightly smaller dimension between the rail and the top of the grove then the other portions of the rail. I can actually see a gap open up between the bearing and the rail grove as I move the car. has anyone had this problem. I dont see anyway to adjust for this.

    Thanks for any responses in advance. This is a great forum.

    Jeff

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Authentic Cabinetworks LLC, minneapolis mn
    Posts
    249

    Default

    YOu may have to shim the rails up where those gaps exist. Also, when you have things running you will have to square up the car to the rails so you cut square. ( search the forum for squaring your car. ) at that point you will re seat the car to the rails and the wheels sould roll flat. You are probably saying to your self What?! but read the articles and comb the forum, and you will see. This is how you learn the machine and make it yours

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Authentic Cabinetworks LLC, minneapolis mn
    Posts
    249

    Default

    Also
    make sure your table is dead level and flat and square. Use a laser level if you can. Check that first because everything builds from that.
    I have been running mine for about 2 months now. It took me a coulple of weeks of tweaking to get just right. Have patience.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    , Sacramento California
    Posts
    31

    Default

    Wow, thanks for the quick response. i'll take a look at the post regarding squaring the car. What type laser level are you refering to? A transite type tool? Im not apposed to buying a level if it helps me be sure its all set up right. Thus far I have used tape measures and home made story stick type jigs.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    7,832

    Default

    Go to BigLots I bought 2 laser levels there for $5.00/ea. that have a magnet on the bottom and a holder and will allow you to turn the beam vertical or horizontal. Hers a pic:
    http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/mes...tml?1178502925

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mason's Millworks, MS
    Posts
    145

    Default

    It's worth a couple of hundred bucks to buy/rent a transit to get your machine set up correctly every time.

    I haven't bought one yet because my brother is a jig/fixture man at Goodyear aviation and has been able to come and set up my machines. With the price of gas, it will be cheaper for all concerned just to buy a descent one from the big box store.

    With a transit you should be able to shoot various places around the machine to check for level and sags etc...

    I was amazed at how bad my job of levelling was when he came the first time with his work transit. I was way, way off and I was using laser levels and a very nice digital 4' level.

    Maybe 300.00 bucks for one but once you buy a vowel it's yours to keep.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Habitat For Bats, Jackson GA
    Posts
    2,113

    Default

    A clear plastic hose with food coloring in water makes a very effective low tech but highly accurate leveling tool.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    Thorp, WI
    Posts
    2,845

    Default

    Jeff, like Andre stated, you may have to shim under those areas where the wheel loses contact with the rail. I had the same issue on one side and if I just loosened the allen head bolts in that area of the rail, I would get better contact. I shimmed and rechecked until contact was consistent throughout the travel.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Home Images Inc, Bel air MD
    Posts
    840

    Default

    Jeff,

    While there are lots of ways to skin a cat so to speak I quess I will put in my 2 cents. I am a contractor with all the latest and greatest tools out there to include several laser levels costing several thousand dollars. But when it came to straightening my X rails I choose first my eye and finaly my 8' level used primaraly as a straight edge. I have the 14' X rails and by looking down the edge I can get alignment with no more then 1/16" descrepancy. Next I put my 8' straight edge on and adjust and shim.

    You do not have to be concered about level while straightening. Once the rails are straight then you can level the table. Getting the rails straight before leveling will save time and not require unnessacary shims.

    My 8' level cost $80.00

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Authentic Cabinetworks LLC, minneapolis mn
    Posts
    249

    Default

    Jeff
    you purchased the PRS correct?
    the two rail need to be on the xact same plane feild. a regular level would work but a rotary laser will tell you for sure. Cut 4 blocks the same size and put a pencil mark on all four. place them on the rails before you place the x car and run a laser around and adjust your legs until all pencil marks line up to the laser line. Do this with the level in the middle of the table with the pencil marks facing in. I did not have to place one shim on my prs alpha rail guides. they are really flat and true.
    When it is time to suare your car, I can help walk you through if you would like, once you do it, some of those gaps may dissapear also.

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