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Thread: Epoxy Flood Coat

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kennebunkport, Maine
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    4,076

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    I went the other way way on my baths and just used a "Teak oil" finish that is no longer available from west marine, but has lasted 18 yrs so far and can be touched up as needed. Used teak , cherry, and red birch flame in baths. smells beautifull and holds up to anything except pure bleach and peroxide. It's only a soft gloss finish but works well.
    Scott Plaisted
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 9
    Maine

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Bedford Hills NY 10507
    Posts
    1,061

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    Epoxy was a thought, because I need to inlay several fire dept patches and company logo into top.
    It is not just a wood top.
    Another thought is layering poly to a thicker finish.
    http://www.WoodworkingByErminio.com

    Custom Cabinetry, Furniture ,CNC Services
    Email:Wberminio@msn.com
    914-666-8746 Shop/Office

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Delray Beach, FL
    Posts
    3,708

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    Erminio:
    On that one I would shoot Magna-Max and self-seal. Although conversion varnish is harder, repairing it later when damaged is hell. Nice thing abouth the Max is you can sand it and re-topcoat when it looks bad, and is still a very hard finish and resistant to all the usual food stains like ketchup, mustard, etc.
    Poly, like ICA is also a good choice but pricier and more demanding to use. I will use that for high-gloss on a table.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Pasadena, CA
    Posts
    967

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    Quote Originally Posted by wberminio View Post
    Epoxy was a thought, because I need to inlay several fire dept patches and company logo into top.
    It is not just a wood top.
    Another thought is layering poly to a thicker finish.
    The epoxy top coat (I used KlearKote tabletop resin from USA-Composites) can be poured up to 1/8"-1/4" thick if need be and is water clear and self-leveling. It is mostly used for bar countertops and can stand quite a bit of abuse like barflies slamming a glass on the table. It is not recommended for outdoor use but I guess it has enough UV inhibitor to not yellow indoors.

    But I agree with the previous post that it scratches. You can buff it out with car polish but it will develop a kind of scratch patina over time.

    Another interesting idea would be clear 2-part polyurethane doming resin (like that). That has a soft feel and kind of "self-heals" scratches. You can get it for outdoor use but I have never seen it on furniture. We use it at the company I work for poured over thin Lexan to make scratch and shatter-proof instrument lenses.

    Thanks for all the tips to address my lacquer problem. Now I need to find out what I can get in smaller quantities.
    Box Joint, Dovetail, Guilloche and MazeMaker Software Here

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Harbour Grace Newfoundland
    Posts
    771

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    Here is a product for a table top it will flow out nice but its easier to work with than exopy {for a bar I would use exopy because of constant spills the chemical would kill a water based finish}

    http://www.rustoleum.ca/cbgproduct.asp?pid=52
    Its amazing can be polished no hardeners

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Bedford Hills NY 10507
    Posts
    1,061

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    thanks all for your input
    erminio
    http://www.WoodworkingByErminio.com

    Custom Cabinetry, Furniture ,CNC Services
    Email:Wberminio@msn.com
    914-666-8746 Shop/Office

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