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Thread: Epoxy Flood Coat

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Pasadena, CA
    Posts
    968

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    Please feel free to use the idea. After all that is the reason for sharing it here.

    However, some things that I learned and that may help you..
    - if you cut the ball channels directly into the wood it must be hard and internally void free.
    - what I did not show in the pics, the channel in the opposite wall of the cabinet is adjustable. I cut an about 2" wide and 3/8" deep recess into the wall and made a plywood inset to fit that has the actual ball channel. I can adjust the pre-load of the slides with 1/4" grub screws. The threads for the grub screws are tapped directly into the bamboo wall because it is hard enough for that. I am not sure if that adjustment is strictly necessary but I was not sure if I could assemble the box with the required precision.
    - the balls are 1/2" diameter and I cut the channels 0.225" deep. That results in a theoretical 0.05" gap between the drawers and the wall. If I had to do it again I would leave a little more space.
    - you can get the steel balls cheap at VXB
    - the channel of the drawers goes along the entire length. The channel in the wall starts at the front but can (and should) be shorter (half the drawer motion plus the length of the balls in a row)
    Box Joint, Dovetail, Guilloche and MazeMaker Software Here

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Qualicum Beach, B.C.
    Posts
    143

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    Brian, we did an epoxy tratment to a cedar slab in our old house in our kid's bathroom. The finish held extremely well, the only thing I didn't like was that it took forever to off-gas. On hot summer days the bathroom had a bit of a plasticky odor to it. We use West System two part slow cure.
    BTW, outstanding work! - Boyd
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Qualicum Beach, B.C.
    Posts
    143

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    Sorry Brian, I'm sure you do great work too but I should have addressed my previous post to G. Burkhardt. - Boyd

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Pasadena, CA
    Posts
    968

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    Hello Boyd,
    sorry I missed your reply but it looks like that is holding up quite well. I used the Kleer Koat bar and table top Epoxy from US-Composites and, once it was set it did not smell at all.

    In the meantime I managed to get the other storage cabinet built and framed the mirror with some remnants from the cabinet build. I cut a bunch of holes into the frame and pounded clear glass marbles in for lighting as a vanity mirror (there is an LED strip behind the glass balls). However, I did not realize that the spheres will focus the light that much. At full intensity the LED will burn your eyes out but miss illuminating the face when close up. I will need some additional diffusor between the LED and the marbles.

    The mirror picture is a cheat. What you see is not the backlight LED but the cat-eye affect of the flash.



    Box Joint, Dovetail, Guilloche and MazeMaker Software Here

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Pasadena, CA
    Posts
    968

    Default Wrong Finish Coat!!

    So far I was quite satisfied with my results but after a few weeks of use it shows that I used the wrong finish. Not at all for the counter top epoxy flood coat (which was the reason for posting here) but the lacquer that I used for the sides and fronts.

    I thought this is just light internal use and a simple spray lacquer should suffice but I forgot humidity. Especially in the morning when everything is a bit cold some surfaces get dripping wet with condensation from the shower steam. The cheap nitro lacquer does not like it and actually begins to flake. Bummer.

    I am ready to take the cabinets off, sand back to the wood and finish with something else. Any recommendation, like poly or marine spar varnish? Preferably something obtainable....and ideally if it does not stink for weeks.

    Thanks!
    Box Joint, Dovetail, Guilloche and MazeMaker Software Here

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Somerset, UK
    Posts
    315

    Default

    Epoxy? Why not?

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Delray Beach, FL
    Posts
    3,708

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    You shouldn't need to strip to wood but do need to get all of the lacquer off. A good quality spar varnish would be OK, as would a 2-part urethane such as Magna-max. If you really wanted it bullet-proof you can use a clear linear poly-urethane such as Awlgrip Foxfire.
    Whatever you use you want to make sure it has a good UV inhibiter in it, as even indoors, raw epoxy will break down from UV exposure from windows. That's why you don't want to use raw epoxy only.
    I understand a couple outfits have come out with Epoxy top coats with UV blocker in them, but I have no experience with that. Perhaps someone who does can chime in on their results over time.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Harbour Grace Newfoundland
    Posts
    771

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    I used epoxy on a concrete counter top the problem I saw was the piece was in direct sunlight it was a light colored turned yellow .I stay away from epoxy I know there is some will not agree .

    I use to think the thick the coats and the more plastic the better it would stand up better .After being in these climate remember I have sideways rain here .
    All your doing is trapping the moister between the wood and the finish you can't stop the processes it has to do with temperature hot and cold simple condensation .The same as driving late at night with the air conditioning on you'l see water on the inside of the windshield

    What you have to remember is let the wood breath that's why latex clear coat shine it lets the wood breath

    I've also seen in aircraft that's 12 coats polyester moister in between the finish in high humidity when we where working in the summer

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Bedford Hills NY 10507
    Posts
    1,061

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    THis post has been interesting.
    I have been commissioned to design and construct a table for a local firehouse.
    They wanted an epoxy top coat to stand up to abuse of heavy fire gear and other abuse,
    I have never used an epoxy finish before.
    Is this the best solution for a super durable table ?
    Thanks
    Erminio
    http://www.WoodworkingByErminio.com

    Custom Cabinetry, Furniture ,CNC Services
    Email:Wberminio@msn.com
    914-666-8746 Shop/Office

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Harbour Grace Newfoundland
    Posts
    771

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    Erminio epoxy does scratch I have piece of concrete in the showroom out of the sunlight there are scratches from very soft use
    You could try 5 mil safety glass could break but it would take a hard blow or use stone .I don't think there isn't a true bullet proof finish I know there are claims but in the field is the true test

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