Running out of time…

[steve_g]

I’m making these mirror frames for my son’s new home… I was about to have the mirrors installed when I decided that one more coat would be good… Wrong!

This is a Rust-oleum rattle can finish. I couldn’t get that nice a crinkle finish if I was trying!

My question for our resident finishing experts is… Is there a quick fix?

SG

[bob_reda]

No quick fix here. I had this happen once to me with the crystal lac finish. Talked to tech support and have been waiting 4 years for an answer Only thing I can figure is that the time between coats maybe a little too long. The only thing I can suggest is sanding.

Bob

[Brady Watson]

I'm NO finishing expert by ANY stretch...BUT - I've screw up enough things to offer the following 2 choices:

1) Roll with it. Get a sponge & some latex & put MORE texture on there. ScupltNouveau gold et al would look fine.

2) Cook it good with the heat gun, let it cool & scotch pad the cooties off of it & re-finish.

-B

[steve_g]

One crinkled one didn’t… only difference was that I had lightly sanded the one that crinkled.

Brady… I seriously considered the textured route but that isn’t what my daughter-in-law wanted.

Sanding…
SG

[kubotaman]

The one you sanded opened up the lower coats that were not completely dry. What you did was create a "mud puddle" effect. A mud puddle cracks for the same reason, undercoat drying at a different rate from the top coat. You can solve your problem by letting the frame completely dry then apply thin coats of a "sandable" primer. Reason for the primer is to help fill in your crinkle finish since it is made to be sanded since it is much softer than the top coat. Then apply you finish coat in thin applications. That should solve the problem. Just take your time and not rush it.

[steve_g]

Daryl…
Makes sense and sounds like a plan! I got out a bright light and a magnifying glass to read the paint can recommendations… Turns out they want 48 hrs. between coats, I was doing 24 at best.

Thanks,

SG

[bryson]

You might also try washing it off with enamel reducer? I've done that to wash the last coat off?

[steve_g]

A quick wrap-up here...
The automotive primer suggested by Daryl made quick work of the repair. Quick build up and fast sanding helped me get the project back on track!

Thanks all

SG

[johnh]

Daryl's advice was definitely spot on. Beware - Rustoleum anything just doesn't dry. It stays gummy inside for a long time. Ive had to sand it off, wash it off with thinner, and also did the sandable fill over it trick too... all because of the exact same crinkle up. If I can see my finger nail mark by pressing into it - I wait to recoat. There instructions usually say something like "recoat within 2 hours or after 48 hours" or to that effect. Its strange stuff.

[bleeth]

FYI: There is a chemical reason why some paints can be recoated fairly quickly or if not, then require a longer time before re-coating.
While the paint is still fresh the next coat will chemically bond to the surface in such a way that the paint below the surface, which is still not cured, can still outgas, which is a natural occurance with paint. Once the surface reaches a certain amount of cure however, the new coat makes this process happen unevenly and causes crazing. So then, before second coating, you need to wait till the bottom coat is completely cured.

When using rattle can paint like Rust-O-Leum, it is important to make that first coat a thin one, even to the extent of it still being somewhat transparent and still showing the material through it. You can then apply a second and third coat pretty quickly. If there is any reason at all to need to sand imperfections before final coat, you do need to wait until it is completely cured. As these products are made for home use, they do not completely set up very quickly, so a good couple days could be in order, particularly in cooler temps.