Anyone straightened a warped Z plate-Perfectly?

[scottp55]

Turns out the Z-plate on the second Desktop has a slight bow in the middle (I didn't catch that). Now that I'm 375 miles south, I told Kirk to get a perfectly flat piece of maple and cautiously tap it back flat, then thought to stick in wood vise and CRANK it, then thought same vise with a shim the same as the Gap and cranking it, THEN,---THEN thought we're probably not the only people that have had to deal with it. Anybody been PERFECTLY happy with the way they did it? I know,I know----Super-Zero. But fixing it today would be great.
MINE is FLAT, so I don't want to experiment. Thanks, scott

[bleeth]

They're pretty thin and bend easy. Mine bows down in the middle so I just hold the ends down when zeroing. Pretty low tech answer. Replacing it with sturdier stuff is pretty easy too.

[cowboy1296]

This was on one of the training films. But I took a sharpies and marked an "x" on the plate so I could always use the same spot. Plus I hold the ends down while zeroing. Plus I attempt (in case the board is a little warped) to always zero at the same place on the stock material.

[scottp55]

Thanks guys, Already have a 1" circle marked with X where we measured the plate(as well as a green ribbon to remind of continuity test ). Dave-must be nice to have 2 hands on the plate, and your other one on the mouse(didn't even notice your 3'rd hand in your avatar ). Low tech indeed(I like my "bigger hammer" approach). I was wondering why we had to mod a file for a .03" groove to .05" at Kirk's shop when it was fine in mine. Should have looked for the reason.

[bleeth]

The z comes down slow enough that it isn't an issue to press enter and then hold the plate. I use the mouse as little as possible.

[srwtlc]

If you need more time to get to the plate after hitting enter, modify the zero routine by adding a PAUSE 5 or however long you need. Saves having to grow a third arm/hand.

[bcondon]

I would get it as close as I could using a vice or better yet, a press...

Put a small washer on each end of the plate and push down in the center. You need to go slightly beyond flat because the plate will just spring back... Use a straight edge to see how close it is...

Next use a belt sander on the bottom of the plate... use a sharpee to draw lines and then gently touch the plate to the belt sander... I would use a 120 or finer belt and very light pressure until the sharpee marks go away.

Then adjust your settings table.


-or- have Shopbot service overnight a new plate to you... Frank will help you out...

Bob Condon

[universaldenial]

As of right now I am using the low tech method of applying pressure to make it flat. Which seems to work

[gerryv]

Thanks guys, Already have a 1" circle marked with X where we measured the plate(as well as a green ribbon to remind of continuity test ). Dave-must be nice to have 2 hands on the plate, and your other one on the mouse(didn't even notice your 3'rd hand in your avatar ). Low tech indeed(I like my "bigger hammer" approach). I was wondering why we had to mod a file for a .03" groove to .05" at Kirk's shop when it was fine in mine. Should have looked for the reason.

Hi Scott, I have to admit that I don't know what the continuity test is or it's purpose as it relates to the ZZero. Can you fill me in or point me to a discussion please?
Tks much,
Gerry

[scottp55]

Gerald, On both our Desktops we leave the alligator clip clipped to the bare metal to the left of the Z-plate holder(bare metal section near Y proximity switch) we've never put the clip on bit or collet nut EVER. Saves time and one less thing to forget. We have spindles, not sure on routers.
Before we Z-zero we touch the plate to the tip of the bit and make sure we get a green light on input 1. If you get a green light you are good to run Z-Zero routine. Get into the habit of ALWAYS checking- I still forgot until I added green ribbon which is kind of in your face reminder I need Hope I explained alright.