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Thread: Desktop Jigging--Pics?

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Kennebunkport, Maine
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    4,325

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    Sure is easier than driving 300+ inserts
    Still planning on BB Ply in the future. Nice to know that might be the last time.
    Does that Naptha/Linseed mix I recommended as similar to the Interlux Teak Oil(on Kirks) seem to keep MDF humidity swelling that I curse regularly, keep it down to a dull roar?
    Gridding now, had High hopes for a downcut .125" Kyocera 90engraving but it cut worse than the upcut that's running now. Still want to try in a hardwood though.
    scott P.
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 10
    Maine

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Port Orchard WA
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    27

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    Hi Scott

    Making a spoil board such as yours is near the top of the pile (as it has been for too long). I saw your post a while ago, noting that your working surface was nearly consumed. I was thinking about making mine with a replaceable working surface. So the ¾ base would have all the inserts, the space outside the 0,0 thru 18,24 working area would be the full ¾ thick and the working area would be lowered as much as possible without getting into the metal inserts 3/16 or a ¼”. The ¾ base would be bolted down onto the table on location and not unbolted. Then I was thinking about a ½” replaceable wearing surface 18 x24 that would set in the recess. the ½” could be bolted to the base piece for easy re-placement. What do you think?
    Couple of questions about yours if I can, Did you recess on the bottom of the base to allow the flanges for the inserts to recess? If not was that a problem for sitting down on the table flat?
    And you have kind of a double grid of holes in the working area, I think one is for the treaded inserts, and the other is for ½” dowels. Is that right? All your postings seem to be using the treaded inserts and cam clamping. The dowel grid being for a tapered wood wedge kind of clamping use? Which do you find more useful? How do you attach the fence? Is that wood dowel I see?

    Thanks, Gene

  3. #43
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    Apr 2013
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    Kennebunkport, Maine
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    Gene, First of all I wouldn't use MDF again--too much movement with humidity, and it flexes too much(minute,but there) when clamping Hard.
    Going BBPly on next one or something even more stable?
    Perimeter is now at .69" thick(same as BB).
    When I do it again, I'll leave full depth with no recessed perimeter(only because I've got 5.5" Z now and it would be stiffer). I'd make dead sure my Yfence was totally true and an accurate reference pin was in.
    I like the idea of the recessed/replaceable cutting area but don't need every scrap of Z now so would just glue on the Actual spoilboard, but seem to remember you were 4"Z and staying that way.
    Ordered flange style inserts by mistake, and not positive I would go that way again, but do like the idea that they semi-self center themselves when driving, that I won't pull them out, and gave me a little peace of mind when drilling out the new top that they would be within a hair of the same height. There's a lot of metal to metal contact and it seems VERY firm(I "lapped" the flanges with 220G stuck on an 18" piece of freshly 'Bot surfaced Maple), But think under REALLY tight wedging I'm seeing the MDF bow ever so slightly when my "anchor" falls midpoint between mounting bolts(more bolts?) but know that BB will help(and it may be my imagination--as I measured a couple times and couldn't see it).
    Yes, .32" holes are inserts, and .375" holes are dowels. For in the cutting area/down and dirty cuts that aren't critical- dowels work fine by themselves. For S2S where surface is uneven and I find the wedges "lifting" the wood, I always use the eccentric triangles that have a bolt hole instead of dowel and it usually fixes it(also good for after repeated dowel use rounds a hole or deforms dowel). X,Y fences ALWAYS bolted at least every 6" because of the way I'm swapping out the button blanks instead of doing bit changes.
    Love the Shopfoxes, but REALLY not very much throw. Top of my list I never get to is making some BB cam clamps with different throws. Prefer clamps to wedges(side note; made some cherry/maple scrap wedges, but they seem to loosen Way more than my BB ones. probably because the grain is multi direction).
    Back to see if my "bot will behave now
    scott
    scott P.
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 10
    Maine

  4. #44
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    Oh, Noticed this morning. Because the Shopfox(or anchors for wedging) bolts are .25" longer and I was only clamping this corner against the fences I Oomphed it and noticed the Shopfox slid back a hair. Released clamping pressure and reset/tightened mounting bolt. No big deal, as it's still flat, but next time I would use circle resize gadget and resize insert hole to say .26-.28" on the glued layer to help keep bolt at 90 degrees. It probably doesn't help the insert stay firmly in the MDF either being forced back and forth. I couldn't do for my whole board as everything X,16+ is offset/skewed due to first Tiling job was mucked up, but can do in the more critical 16,18 area.
    Next one I also may do 2 toolpaths for the inserts, one for best insert holding diameter(.55" deep), and a second full depth at the .26-.28" Diameter(Just change offset allowance in the toolpath). No reason for the entire hole to be .32"Diameter(seemed best for this cheap MDF).
    Still workable, but definitely thinking by adding a sacrificial layer it can last years, so keep your tiling accurate
    scott
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    scott P.
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 10
    Maine

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Eastvale, CA
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    74

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    Scott, I live in Southern California where it is pretty dry all year long so I can't really comment on the affect of the Naptha/Linseed mix as far as humidity goes. However, I can say that it did make the top really smooth after I resurfaced it. It didn't have the fuzziness left like it did when I cut the recess around the perimeter of the spoilboard with untreated MDF.

    On the downside, it took more than a week for it to dry out after the Naptha/Linseed oil bath. I'm happy that I did it though.

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
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    3

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    Question - I am a new Desktop owner.. I would like to make a wedging top (Bill's Design) as shown.

    https://app.box.com/wedging-top

    How do I cut a top that is larger than the 24"x18" cutting area of the shopbot desktop?
    am I missing something obvious?

    Have you improved the design? It looks like it works well.
    thanks
    Vera

  7. #47
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    Thorp, WI
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    2,759

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    ...am I missing something obvious?
    Perhaps you're missing a table saw, circular saw, jig saw, or one of those that you operate by hand.

    "He who would trade liberty for some temporary security, deserves neither liberty nor security" - Benjamin Franklin
    "Make yourself sheep and the wolves will eat you" - Benjamin Franklin




  8. #48
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Kennebunkport, Maine
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    Have to get back to you tomorrow Vera
    Have a busy day today and a lot to talk about.
    Bill's wedging top as shown works pretty good, but adding the threaded inserts really made it work better!!
    Got 6 good years out of it even though untreated big box store Cheapo MDF original is the one I still have.
    Cheapo MDF substrate finally delamed, and making Maple inserts to epoxy in to beef it up for the connection bolts.

    Basic question is you use the Tiling Feature in VCP to split the toolpaths so you can run the oversized substrate through the Y axis.
    DID make improvements on Spoilboard 2&3, and a friend made a really nice one using HDO as a substrate and then .25" MDF as the replaceable surface.
    I've now glued on 4 pieces of MDF over 6 yrs, and the substrate original was still going strong until April, when Winter tightened bolts, got expose to Spring humidity...
    And the swelling was just to great for my 0,0 corner MDF.

    You're welcome to my file if you email me(address is in my contact info), but I have to change the depth of the bolt pocket to leave more meat when I do my HDO one.
    Be glad to answer any questions also.
    I WAS going to take pics that explained the problem and repost....I better get too it
    scott
    scott P.
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 10
    Maine

  9. #49
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    Apr 2013
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    Kennebunkport, Maine
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    Whole HECK of a lot easier doing it on the Desktop Scott
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    scott P.
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 10
    Maine

  10. #50
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    Apr 2013
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    Kennebunkport, Maine
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    Vera,
    Just noticed that was your first post and you just joined Forum.....so first thing is WELCOME!!
    IF you haven't already, I'd join the Vectric Forum for VERY helpful people to help with software issues! A Great group of people!

    How long have you had your machine.....and is it your first?
    Just asking as the file relies heavily on Layers, and holes are all "Drilled" using 1 bit and the Profile Inside Line with a Spiral Ramp.
    IF like I was when I made my first one, my bit selection was just the "Starter Set of 7".
    Location? IF CA then I've heard MDF is mainly Medex (Lousy dust, BUT a better substrate than I used!)?
    I'm not fully caffeinated...and pulling almost an all-nighter for first time in Months! So excuse rambling
    Again Welcome Vera! (and got your email....pics really do help understand it)
    scott

    p.s. srwtlc (Scott W.) was thinking the "Basic Deck"...He's a great Mentor(but must have been in a Snarky mood
    scott P.
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 10
    Maine

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