Bot up and runnig

[steve_g]

Scott…
My cam offset is ⅛” for a total of ¼” of motion. I haven’t tried for more but I can tell you that I’ll need a longer cam handle if I do!
The leather is “saddle string” from Tandy. However they tan it is the way I use it. I originally bought it for a cane handle wrap before my hip replacement… I found out the hard way that the color isn’t permanent! (at least the burgundy isn’t)
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/lacing/5008-200.aspx
SG

[scottp55]

Steve, For one I'm doing next I need 1/2" (5/8" better). You're handle looks like 3 1/2" protruding? Would you double it?
Yeah, any of the reds can prove difficult with sweat and sun fading. Thanks for the leather link. I WAS going to cut a piece from half a "Utility" skin I've got($220). Now I'll use some old chrome tanned moccasin leftovers

[steve_g]

Scott…
My cams are 3” from the center, doubling+ to around 7” sounds about right… My clamp body is two pieces of 12mm Baltic Birch milled and then assembled using the steel cam pivot dowel to help align all. The slit for the “spring” action is about 5”, if I was going for a greater range of movement, I would go longer if I was using Baltic Birch.
One change I’ll make next time is to let the hole for the pivot dowel go all the way through, so replacing the leather would be possible if necessary.
SG

[scottp55]

Thanks Steve, Hope Kyle gets some use out of info too Don't like picking brains on someone else's thread(but I still do it much better than wedging for me, as I can't stand over it to knock the thin end of the wedges accurately.
Going to have to mod mine to hold the ENDS of the wood instead of the middle as after cut-out, there's just an 1/8" of wood and the tabs holding it together, but the ends of the wood have a good 1 1/2" of solid wood remaining.

[steve_g]

Scott…
This discussion is pertinent to Kyles thread so I don’t feel like we’re hijacking! The jig I showed earlier has never had parts vibrate loose like I’ve had wedges do, the faces of the mechanism only move in an out so they don’t mar the face like cams alone or even wedges do. Also, this setup has much less tendency to want to tilt, lift or cant the material.
SG

[scottp55]

Yeah, Had wedges loosen during cut-out on the last few passes, and I wanted SO BAD to do something! And the lifting issue is a constant annoyance with wedging. Got a Z critical cut on the back of an "almost not a proto" cribbage board, so I need to surface first,cut, and then cut out blanks. Now they're shaped will swap jig out and use pocketed vac or friction fit jig to do front face. Planning on fully finished blanks going to Acadian Congress fair in August and using pocketed jig to customize individually or in runs so people can watch the Desktop do its thing.
It was nice to see Kyle do his clamp so fast, and his pocketing into the side of his jig option never occurred to me.

[Kyle Stapleton]

Taking my post back!!

Kids running custom part for our chairs.