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Thread: best way to fix a dado

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    Trinidad, Co.
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    61

    Default best way to fix a dado

    I would like to know the best way to fix a dado after it has been cut.

    Say you just cut a dado and it is .010 to small what is the best way to
    make it .010 bigger.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    7,832

    Default

    The simpliest way without having to redo files ect is to do this...

    Go back to your start point of 0,0
    do a MZ 0 (move Z to zero, surface of material)
    do a MZ -.10 (pay attention to the minus sign)
    Re Zero your Z to that point
    You have now lowered your material surface down 10 thousandths
    Rerun the same file and it will recut that same toolpath only it will go 10 thousandths deeper

    You don't have to redo files or anything else...simple
    You may have to lower your Z to Zzero from instructions above somewhere away from the material to keep from jamming your bit into the material.
    Words of Wisdom:
    “Words that sink into your ears are whispered…… not yelled”
    “The biggest trouble maker you’ll probably ever have to deal with, watches you from the mirror every morn’n”
    “The only difference between a rut and a grave is the depth”
    -----------
    Just remember...when it's time for the hearse to pull up..there's no luggage rack on top!
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    The beauty of the Second Amendment is that it will not be needed until they try to take it...Thomas Jefferson

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Pittsburgh
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    Default

    I think what Jack is describing is how to make the dado "deeper", if that is what you need than follow his instructions.

    However, I've found that if a dado doesn't fit, typically it is the width of the dado that is the problem. You can attempt to reroute as described above and make the dado .001 wider, but you will never be able to reposition you material on the hold down table in the exact location to make that fine of a cut.

    So two things to try:
    If it is a through dado, opened on both ends ( not a blind dado) than carefully adjust you table saw for both height and distance and just barely shave down one side of the dado. This is the easiest and fastest way.

    If it is a blind dado, cut a block of wood just slightly narrower than the dado and wrap,it in sand paper and sand the edges of the dado.

    Before doing any of the above, I would heavy sand the male portion of the dado joint, you will be amazed how often this will work.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    Thorp, WI
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    2,845

    Default

    If the cut file consist of just that dado (or dados running in the same direction) and assuming you want the dado wider, you can use Move Nudge (MN) to nudge 0.010 to one side or the other (X or Y) and then re-run the file. MN to nudge back to the original coordinates when done. If you want to widen the dado both directions, then move nudge 0.005 one way, cut, and then nudge 0.005 the other way.

    If the dados are in both directions and the original file cuts dados and profiles in one, then it would be best to modify the dados in the design file and save out a new dado only cut file. You can scale each dado as needed with the 'Set object size' tool by selecting the anchor point, to keep one edge of the dado where desired, and then scaling in either x or y. Be sure to uncheck 'Link XY'.
    Scott




  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    , Richmond Tx
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    Default

    If your parts are already cut, stand the panel on edge and skim a touch off of it with the table saw blade, set to the depth of the dado for it's height. This is for the shelf or whatever, that goes into the dado.
    Kenneth

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    7,832

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    My assumption was you wanted it deeper not wider...
    However assuming you haven't moved your part from the table and left it where it was depending on whether your dado runs in the X axis then you could go to your 0,0 point and move it .10 in the Y and rezero there and wouldn't that get you the same results?
    Words of Wisdom:
    “Words that sink into your ears are whispered…… not yelled”
    “The biggest trouble maker you’ll probably ever have to deal with, watches you from the mirror every morn’n”
    “The only difference between a rut and a grave is the depth”
    -----------
    Just remember...when it's time for the hearse to pull up..there's no luggage rack on top!
    -----------
    The beauty of the Second Amendment is that it will not be needed until they try to take it...Thomas Jefferson

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Pope Valley CA
    Posts
    692

    Default

    A file and/or sandpaper works wonders and only takes a minute to do.
    Ron Sloan

  8. #8
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    Jul 2011
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    Timmins, Ontario, Canada
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    7,832

    Default

    That looks too much like work AJ
    My motto is...if i can't do it with a powertool, i don't do it!
    Words of Wisdom:
    “Words that sink into your ears are whispered…… not yelled”
    “The biggest trouble maker you’ll probably ever have to deal with, watches you from the mirror every morn’n”
    “The only difference between a rut and a grave is the depth”
    -----------
    Just remember...when it's time for the hearse to pull up..there's no luggage rack on top!
    -----------
    The beauty of the Second Amendment is that it will not be needed until they try to take it...Thomas Jefferson

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Habitat For Bats, Jackson GA
    Posts
    2,113

    Default

    Lots of good suggestions. I've run into this myself but I had to make a blind dado about 1/16" wider. I used a clamp guide and my skill saw set to the depth of the dado, then cleaned up the ends with a chisel. Took me about 10 minutes and was easy enough. I then adjusted my cut file so it didn't happen again.

    /RB

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